Time Flies

My gods, it's basically been a year since I last posted over here.
Perhaps some of you have been following me over at my Warm Ray Gun blog, but I feel this page has been neglected.
So here's a quick update regarding a current project!
In my usual last-minute and late night inspirations, I've decided to make a royal blue velveteen riding habit in the style of the 1840s.
It's going rather well, actually, and it may be done in time to wear to Dickens Fair this Saturday.

I'll elaborate more on a future post when it's done and presentable. While it's nothing fancy yet, here are a few progress shots via my Instagram page.

The fabric; a rich royal blue cotton velveteen from Renaissance Fabrics.

Whew, the silk satin collar and velvet revers are nearly done. Tough part round one; done. Up next...sleeves. As experienced as I am, setting in sleeves to a bodice or, in this case 'jacket', still makes me squirm. #finishbyfriday #victorianstyle #1840sfashion #victorianridinghabit #sewingwithvelvet #fearisthemindkiller

A photo posted by Vienna La Rouge (@viennalarouge) on Nov 29, 2016 at 7:48pm PST

Continued work on the 1840s velveteen riding habit; fitting the seams and adjusting the pleats on the jacket's back. #sewingwithvelvet #equestrianstyle #rakishwomen #dickensfair2016 #swagger #1840sfashion #victorianstyle

A photo posted by Vienna La Rouge (@viennalarouge) on Nov 27, 2016 at 12:20am PST

Lots and lots of cartridge pleats. Making my version of an 1840s blue velveteen riding habit skirt. It will get its debut the third weekend of Dickens Fair (next weekend) ❤️ #earlyVictorianstyle #masculinefashion #equestrianstyle #swagger #sewingwithvelvet #rakishwomen

A photo posted by Vienna La Rouge (@viennalarouge) on Nov 25, 2016 at 7:34pm PST

The Final Update Before Dragon Con...

Dear readers, this is it for entries until after Dragon Con.
It's just a few days away and I still have a lot of finishing touches to complete on both the Lagertha battledress and Elsa's gown. However, I do have a couple of images to share as a teaser, and plenty of photos of the final products to share after the madness of con is over.

Here's a sneak-peek of the completed chainmaille tunic body. This was before I added the maille shoulder pieces, and had tried it on for fit...and it fit! (whew!)
I left the left shoulder section of maille detached but laced to a small strip of leather. From the closeup photos I had, I noticed this was used. A genius move on the part of the Vikings costume dept., so that way the entire left side of the tunic can open up for ease of dressing & undressing. When put on, that small strip of leather with the shoulder chainmaille piece simply gets tied back onto the rear shoulder section...if that makes any sense. If I have time later today, I can post a closeup of the original showing this detail.

 This was also before I had dyed my leather side laces a darker brown.

 

There are little to zero clues as to how Lagertha's blue leather dress closes in front. From some of the hi-res pictures, I was able to discern that it closed in front, but how was a mystery. So, once again using my own imagination, I decided to re-purpose a few of the extra rings leftover from the chainmaille as lacing loops.
Even further with my own stylistic leanings, the little holes you see punched in the leather will get some of the brass studs later. or maybe some fancier ones if I can track any down.

I still need to treat the leather to darken and weather is a little, too

I've been taking my own path with the look of the shirt. Keeping a similar color pallet to Lagertha's, but since it's so hard to make out details, or get a clear view of her undershirt collar, I am using my imagination. For mine, I'm utilizing a flax/hemp cord in a slate grey with some of the deep brown leather flat lacing also used on the leather dress. I've also done some extra decorative stitches in a flax thread along the neck seam.

It's definitely rustic looking, but then I'm portraying a Viking queen, not a Disney princess....at least not the entire time ;-)

The beginnings of the armored arm braces...

**Edited to add: Unfortunately the shield is not a go. We were trying to construct it so that it could separate in half for travel, but we just need more time to perfect it and make it hold together more solidly.**

A shield in the making, thanks to my friend Anders. Nearly complete; it just needs its handles at the back and paint. I have a sword he carved from wood and painted to look like the real thing, complete with leather scabbard.

So, stay tuned. There will be a ton of photos to share very soon. Perhaps even during Dragon Con!

XOXO

A Brief Photo Post

I found a couple more photos of the other ensemble I made, taken by my friend RJ Johnson this past weekend at Dickens Fair.
When seeing these photos all I can say is wow, I REALLY need to put stays/boning on those side seams and front darts! The lack of time whilst also completing the Sisi velvet project played a part in that. Still, not too shabby for a somewhat rushed bodice.
I want to find a really nice silky ivory brush fringe to apply to the sleeves, just above the pleating on the cuffs, and around the shoulders going into a 'V' down the front of the bodice. Probably at the bottom edge of the bodice skirt as well.
Like I had mentioned earlier, after Fair is done I'll get some nice full length photos of both outfits.

I was so sleepy that Sunday, heh!

The lovely bonnet is on loan to me from my friend Laura. I need to make a similar one for next year, I have found myself adoring the drawn bonnets of the 1850s.

 The new Dark Garden corset I'm wearing underneath also made me considerably smaller (even though it didn't feel like it!) than the one I had been using previously, and to fit this bodice on. So, the bodice fits a tad looser now, hence some of the wrinkling. The pattern I based it off of also calls for a slight amount of padding between the bust and armscye, to get that hourglass curve into the nipped waistline. Another thing I didn't have time for, but this may also help to smooth things out when I do add it.

The temp. hair color is also fading out nicely, and is even lighter now since these photos were taken. It makes me glad that this is the final weekend of Fair. Any more and it will have faded out to the point that my add-on braids of fake hair no longer match! I'm looking forward to getting back to my own blonde color.

XOXO

The Velvet Hussar: Nearly Complete!

I'm proud to say that as of tonight (or tomorrow evening), my reproduction of Empress Elisabeth's velvet and fur winter ensemble will be done!
Saturday will be its debut as I will be presented to HRH Queen Victoria, at Dickens Fair for Royals Day.
Of course I have no real photos of anything yet since I've been so busy finishing it up, but here is a photo of the matching hat I finished this afternoon during my lunch hour (sorry for the poor image quality):

In the original photograph of 'Sisi' wearing this outfit, her hat was a similar shape and style, with what looks like a little mink fur decoration at one side (away from the camera). Hers had more of an upturned close brim. Frustratingly, I didn't have the time or ability to replicate her hat this year, but was able to make one in the same vein. Instead of at the side, I put a looped velvet bow tipped with little mink pom poms at the center back. The rest of the hat is black sinmay covered with the same black velveteen as the gown in a softly gathered toque style with a little Hungarian flair.

Below is one of the 8 appliques I hand beaded to go on the front of the coat. These are a base for the covered toggles that the cord loops across the front attach to.

From the original set of photographs. You can see the little sprout of fur to the right on her hat:

'Sisi' with Shadow.

The lace collar on the blouse I wore last year will work perfectly for underneath, and I've added some lace frill to the cuffs as well.

In this image, it's easier to make out the daisy-shaped & beaded motifs under the toggles on her bodice.

 My skirt will not be trained long in back. You have no idea how much I wish it could be. But I needed to make it shorter because well, it's the Cow Palace/Dickens Fair. While the ground isn't atrociously dirty with mud etc. (but still pretty heinous) the risk of having my hem accidentally stepped on by patrons and players alike is too risky.

Oh and by the way; I went so far as to *DYE MY HAIR* for this.
Maybe not just for this Sisi project alone, but for fun too. I had to bite the bullet and did it on Tuesday evening before I allowed myself to chicken out. My own blonde locks will be in hiding, gradually making their way back out over the next few months, as I slowly and gently get the darker semi-permanent shade of chestnut out.

Check it!:

Bodice Progress

Here it is as of yesterday evening.

The seams still needed clipping to smooth them out, and a little boning.

I'm taking it with us so I can at least hand sew on the button loops and some of the buttons.

The sleeves are cut out, minus the extra frill, but ready to go on when we get home tomorrow evening. I went with the narrower bell sleeve popular during the early 1850s, that has the slits from the cuff to about the inner bend of the arm.

I also found an antique collar the same ivory as the silk that will work wonderfully at the neck.

Cross your fingers I can finish it by the weekend! The skirt will need to wait until next week, but I have a few skirts that will work for now.

Just a little update,,,

I'm chugging along on the 1850s bodice for Dickens.
The fabric I'm using is an ivory silk taffeta, and is a dream to work with. I've missed using this fabric, it's been a while!
Before you get worried about ivory silk at Dickens fair; not to worry. I'm careful, and I have a shawl.  I can also drape it across me in a bohemian manner while at tea, if I need to ;-)

I'm using the Simplicity mid 1850s pattern #9761 as a guide, but will be doing something else for the sleeves and front.
I may even round out the points of the peplum in front and in back.
As far as commercial patterns go, this one is going together fairly easily, I just wish I'd taken some photos yesterday. I'll post some here when I'm further along on it.

I'm having the hardest time deciding on what sleeve style to do, as there were so many lovely options during the 1850s. I'd love to get away from the typical pagoda style I see everywhere, but still need something that isn't too time consuming.
The bodice front will have faux revers, and little covered buttons all down the front. I'm hoping to use some of the burgundy stripe in the fabric I'll use for the skirt to cover the buttons with. That way I'll have a nice pop of color on top, and it won't look too bridal.
I have some beautiful net lace trim on the way, too, for both the bodice and somewhere on/in the sleeves.

But yes, sleeves.
What style?! The good part is that the sleeves that come with the pattern can easily be tweaked to create any of the following, so at least I have a template that fits the bodice armscye already. The less futzing, the better!
Here are a few concepts rattling around my head as options:

 The tiered sleeves on the gal in blue.

And this plate again, either one of these would be great; puffed or with multiple little cap sleeves.

 And this green dress is just 'effing amazing. Again; puffed sleeves seem to be all the rage, and visually make the waist smaller by contrast.

With the puffed sleeve option, it all depends on how it will look on my frame, so I'll definitely do a quick mock-up first. With the large skirt it could either look fine and balance out, or make me look like a Stay-Puft marshmallow girl.

XOXO

A Bit Of Light In The Darkness

After digging through my stash of silks, I ran across a lovely ivory/lavender/rose stripe silk taffeta I've had or years. The ivory stripe has a satin finish and a light ribbed texture. I also had to bite the bullet and buy some Ivory silk taffeta from Renaissance Fabrics, so I can make a complimenting bodice. I only have 5 yards of the stripe for the skirt.
I hope to finish both that and my Sisi velvet ensemble before the end of Dickens fair.

 I might use a cotton broadcloth for the skirt base, and do the silk in 2 tiers with the stripes going horizontal.

Also, I love my new 1850s hoop crinoline from Kay! It's the perfect bell shape and doesn't have that annoying "lampshade" look that so many modern (bridal) hoop petticoats do.

***WARNING***
For those seeking a good deal on silk taffeta fabrics, you may want to be wary when dealing with B.R. Exports. Better known as puresilks.us. The hilarious thing, is the stripe silk shown above is actually from this same seller, but from their Ebay store ages ago. They still carry this weave (supposedly), and while I would love more, after my recent experience with them, I don't want to roll those dice.
While I am always careful about where I order online goods, I had done some research on these folks and heard current reviews that varied from fantastic, to slightly annoying. Well, I decided to place an order last week for 10 yards of that light royal blue silk taffeta from their website.
They were super quick (less than 24 hours) to contact me and said they no longer had the fabric I ordered in stock, and offered other similar options (other colors/dupion textures, etc). Right away I replied that the other options were not going to work for my project, and could I please have a refund of my money.
Keep in mind I used Paypal for this transaction, thank gods.

Even though they didn't have the fabric in stock, they accepted my payment right away.
They have yet to reverse/refund it, and after a week of little to no communication from them, I filed a Paypal claim to get my money back.
Granted they are in India, but if they were so quick to contact me initially about my order, why should it take so many extra business days for them to even discuss a refund of my payment.
I heard from them finally yesterday morning before I finally escalated the dispute to a claim, and they continued their attempt at selling me fabrics I did not want! Then they had the balls to say that they didn't have my money!
Well, Paypal shows the transaction as complete and in their hands under their company name. 
When I pay for something via Paypal, it comes from my bank account and goes into a balance toward the purchase. When the seller accepts payment for a purchase, it takes the funds from my Paypal account into the sellers Paypal balance, where they can then withdraw it to wherever they want. Either way, they have my money. It shows that they took it, and it's not sitting in limbo. 
I will keep you all updated as to how this unfolds. XOXO

Trying New Things...at the last minute

Could it be? I'm actually delving into the world of Regency! *gasp*!
A trip to southern California in less than two weeks involves attendance with two of my best friends to a  historically costumed event. It's not only semi-last minute, but also based around an era I usually don't give much thought to. Yet lately, I've been intrigued.

Normally I like fashions that show off a defined waistline, but I have found myself occasionally eying the late 1790s and 1820s.
For this "quick" gown, I'm using two sources; Janet Arnold's illustrations and diagrams for a 1798-1805 example from Snowshill Manor, and Simplicity pattern 4055 as a cutting guide that will be faster than having to scale up the JA pattern from the book.
When all is said and done, it should look more like the first two images. I'm going for a very late 1790s look.

I found a lovely pale ivory cotton voile that has an embroidered and appliqued floral vine pattern, also in ivory, woven through. Perhaps it's not totally accurate for the time period, but it will do for now. As you can see by the sheer nature of the cotton, I will definitely be making that chemise for underneath!

Next on my list to get before next weekend, is a simple pair of pointed toe flats in a light color. I'm hoping for a white or off white, and this will be a great chance to wear my clocked stockings from American Duchess. Even a pair of pastel flats could be nice. I'm just trying to stay away from typical black shoes, as more of the period fashion plates show lighter colors were worn more often with the lighter colored, gossamer ladies fashions of the era.

Current Doings...

No gown sewing just yet, but I have had time to make a new hat!
Some friends and I are putting together a casual meet up at a historical cafe in Berkley, CA...but dressed for the 1930s ;-) This inspired me to finally get on a smaller project I've been meaning to do. I have a lot of black hats from the 1930s, and I just needed something different. Since I have just enough time, I might as well get a new one done for this little shindig.

A few years ago, I found a really basic hat at a thrift shop in Santa Cruz for about $20.
The label was a semi-high end designer, but the hat was essentially an unblocked capeline (for the 'boho' look, I'm sure) of exquisite burgundy velour felt. I grabbed it with the intention of either blocking it, or cutting and stitching it into a new creation, and it has been in my stash until now.

I chose to make a mid 1930s look by using the crown of the original hat, and cutting pieces from the remaining felt to make a sculpted brim, in a style that sits close to the head with a nice swoop to one side.
A little stitching and a dig through my random findings stash for the little arrow pin, and voila! I have a new hat that looks like a never-worn vintage design.
I think I will be doing a lot more of these hats! Keep an eye on my Etsy shop too ;-)

I apologize for the 'un-done' hair and horrible photos. Hopefully better ones will follow soon:

 I love the little dove tail effect that happened in back.

The 2 Day Bodice for 12th Night...

So I finished the pink silk bodice to wear with the existing skirts I had of the same magenta faille taffeta.
By 'finished', I mean it's sewn together and wearable. It looks good now, but there are a few adjustments that I want to make before I wear it a second time.
The seams need to be boned, the puff sleeves might get a few tacks to control the puff into a more ruched look, and it's slightly roomy for me.
I still want to put some decorative buttons up the back over the closure, and put hooks and eyes on both the inside of the bodice and skirts to keep it from riding up. Overall, it turned out pretty good for such a last minute project.

Here are a few photos from the 12th Night Ball. I don't want to share too much until I get the wrinkles out, literally, and take some better photos of the whole gown. Regardless, a grand time was had and everyone looked smashing.

At the royals table, watching a reading by Mr. Charles Dickens

...and champagne....lots of champagne

With Anders Hudson

Once More,With Feeling...

Remember at the end of my last post, where I wondered what the hell I was going to wear to the upcoming Twelfth Night Ball?
Well, all I need is a new bodice! I think I can make it work in time, and I'm hauling on it, so I'm not too worried.

The Twelfth Night Ball is essentially the big wrap party for the cast of Dickens Fair. Yes, Dickens still has its claws in us weeks after it ends. What's nice about this ball, is that we can wear whatever era we want ;-)
So, since I have zero 1850s or 1860s formal wear, I'm going 1880s bustle since there is a lot of that going on in my wardrobe already. However, the only formal evening or ballgown style bodice I have is the one to my madame X gown. I've already worn that to so many of the dances that I need something new...and I'd like to wear something besides black.

I know, I know. The Sisi/Velvet Hussar project needs to be finished, and I'll finish that before I start any more new projects...but I need this ballgown bodice by this Saturday evening.
I already have the lower half of the ensemble from this 1880s promenade gown I made a few years ago. I might remove the lace apron for the ball though:

I was lucky enough to have plenty of the rich magenta silk faille taffeta left over to make a ballgown bodice from (it looks more purple in the above photo than is really is).
I'm using the Truly Victorian 1860s Ballgown Bodice, and making the point in front a little more long and sharp instead of the soft V the pattern gives me. Keeping the whole design fairly simple, I'm likely not adding any lace and utilizing the same green/rose shot moire ribbon I have on the skirt somewhere on the bodice.
I've also added a little peplum in back, to give it that much more of a bustle era boost.
Sleeves; It's one of those almost-off-the-shoulder styles, so I may leave that as is, and use the short puff sleeves that already come with the pattern...though I may widen them a bit for more puff, then tack them in a few spots to sculpt the puffiness. Working with this silk is a dream, and sculpting is the word that keeps coming to mind.
Here is the bodice after just starting it this afternoon. I had to crank the color of the image a bit to show the true color of this incredible silk. Each piece is flat-lined with a plain white cotton twill, darts are done, peplum is pepped...like I said, I'm hauling:

Tonight or tomorrow evening, I'll do the final fitting and decide if I want the closure in back or hidden in front under some sneaky trim/sash thingy.
Oh and, Happy New Year! XOXOX