A Polonaise Continued: Red Silk For A Petticoat

It has arrived!
The Ruby Red silk I ordered from Renaissance Fabrics, landed on my doorstep after I returned home from work today.
As expected, the quality is divine and the color is sumptuous, but soft when compared to most red fabrics of today. Perfect for the 18th century. It leans toward a warm rose color, with a very slight golden undertone.
And of course, it's a perfect match to the polonaise gown fabric.
I'll probably pair this gown with contrasting colors of petticoats in the future, too, as I have a similar one I need to make in a gold silk taffeta (for another project). I can mix-and-match!
I think I just wanted this red color because of the challenge; to find a soft red and hope that it also comes in a lovely silk taffeta for historical sewing. I can happily say this search has proved successful.

Step By Step: A New 18th Century Dress Pattern

Ok, I will go on record to say that I'm more than a bit excited for the new 1760-1770s English Gown pattern from Larkin & Smith. I've been wanting to try their mitts pattern for a while now, and when the gown pattern was recently released, I made up my mind to order both.

Not from the usual time frame that I currently obsess over, but this is the style that made me fall in love with the 18th century, way back when.
I do love the cut and versatility of these particular gowns. The clean lines and fitted back lends itself well to all figures and types of trimming. Another good thing about the English gown; if you have an event or reenactment to attend that is set somewhere during the latter half of the 1700s, you can rest assure you will be dressed accordingly should this ever be the only frock you have. It was worn well into the 1790s by some in the middle/merchant classes, and in the Americas.

"There are 34 pages of step by step instructions, with 20 pages of color photographs, spiral bound.  As you can imagine this bumped up our printing costs quite a bit.  So our pattern has to be more expensive than other patterns.."

$28.00
That is a small price that I'm HAPPY to pay, considering that too many historical patterns out there have less than ideal instructions. There are even some with incorrect instructions that never get edited, and some are practically nonexistent! The primary focus is on hand sewing, but I'm sure machine sewing is still an option.
I'm really looking forward to trying this pattern out, and making some lovely things inspired by the below images.
Extant gowns from the KCI Archives:

Trotting Along The Path Of Inspiration

http://rococoatelier.blogspot.com/2014/01/naval-riding-habit-inspiration.html

As the sewing area settles back into a somewhat usable space, I have been revisiting the list of projects that I'd like to accompish. For once, I'd like to sew something this year that doesn't end up being a rushed job to complete for an event. That may come later in the year, since I'll be attending a convention that is heavy on the costuming  ;-)
Until then, my wish list is long, so I'm really going to need to pick the most-likely-to-finish items from it.

At the top of the list of course, is a new pair of 18th century stays. I'll need these for fitting if I'm going to be making any more 18th century ensembles.

The next item is to finish the red/cream flourish and stripe robe a l'anglaise. I really need the above stays to do this one properly too.

Third on the list may be another new burlesque costume, and a large prop. This might actually take precedence over anything else this year, besides the stays.

Then I stumbled across Sanna K's post over on Rococo Atelier, regarding naval inspired 18th century riding habits. Of course I had to add that to my list as well, and it also seems many other people have too. It looks like we may have a 'Riding Habit-along' on our hands.
I was also reminded that I have a huge amount of trim that is perfect for such a project. This includes boxes of gold or silver antique military trims, buttons and bullion. The trick is to decide on a color and what the cut will be like. Waistcoat, or none? I'm inclined to go without, but I love the look of a pretty ivory silk waistcoat peeking out from the metallic trim of the frock, and the frothy lace of the shirt.
I'd like to go for something around the middle of the 18th century, and the below images are some inspiration.
I'd love a robin's egg/Tiffany blue, or perhaps in a deep forest green, wool with silver trim. Gold would be nice on either one of those, too.

Even if none of this happens this year, it's still on my to-do list. I have a pattern that could work for the tan colored habit shown here, plus the skirt and a men's shirt that can be modified a little for underneath. The waistcoat, if I go that route, I can tailor over my stays from a men's pattern as well.

Rococo Reading: A New 18th Century Hair Manual

During time off for the holidays (and recovery from the flu) I stumbled upon what could be a very useful find during my online wandering.
Hairstyles are one of the more difficult aspects of 18th century costuming, and getting your look perfected can often seem more stressful than sewing the actual wardrobe.
Kendra Van Cleave of Demodecouture.com, comes to our rescue.
She has created a book detailing 18th century hairstyles and techniques, and is slated to be released this spring. Price; $45 ($5 discount if you pre-order the book) according to the Facebook page.
Pre-orders begin Jan 1st, 2014!

http://18thcenturyhair.com/

Overall, this looks like something I will most definitely be purchasing as soon as pre-orders start. While I've had some experience with wigs and creating historic hairstyles with my own hair, the 18th century is something I have rarely delved into, and really wouldn't mind having a go-to guide for. I've done the more simple mid-1700s look; the chignon with a pinner cap or a well-propped-up plume. But I yearn for the somewhat taller and fuller styles between the 1770s and 1780s.

Be sure to visit and 'like' the Facebook page for updates and more info:
https://www.facebook.com/18thCenturyHairstyling

Here is a small sampling from the table of contents (draft), and some techniques that will be covered;

"...Working with human hair: 

• Curling
• Straightening

Working with synthetic hair & wigs:

• Purchasing
• Different kinds of wigs & hairpieces
• Making hairpieces (ponytails, ringlets, buns, braids, etc.)

Wigs: 

• Adding extra hair
• Changing the hairline
• Enlarging a wig
• How to make it all look smooth
• Masking an obvious wig line
• Wig care, storage, & travel

Powdering
Section 3:  Finished Styles

• Women:  22 styles spanning 1700-1799
• Men:  3 styles spanning 1740-1799

Both with step by step instructions illustrated with color photos, and lots of ideas for variations."

Just Something Pretty...

It's interesting to compare the way we apply ruched trims to reproduction historical garments today, as opposed to how it was once done. Perhaps this is due to the fact many no longer have the same finishing tools readily available, like pinking irons, and edging trims (or the skills to produce them). So we sometimes rely on just putting a deeper gather on our ruching, or more stuff on a gown to fill in the space.

Below as an example, we see that there isn't an excess of stuff gathered to the point of snapping the thread that binds it. Instead it's laid down delicately by hand, with just enough body to give it depth and allow a serpentine curve while laying flat.

Of course for this trim I'm sure a lower profile of ruffle was desired, and it has been flattened a bit over the ages. But even on gowns where more fulness of trimming was needed, there is still a quality of 'less as more'.

The thing I also notice about clothing during the latter half 18th century, is that exquisite framing of space. Weather it's on a frock coat or a Robe a l'Anglaise. The trim and decoration compliment the simplicity and effortless elegance if the textiles used, rather than to cover it up.

Early 1770s silk brocaded jacquard gown. Self made ruching with fly braid at edge.

Example Of My Current Project: A Hopeful Outcome

This is what I'm attempting for my Robe a l'Anglaise, for both the gown and stomacher style. I'm either going for a Super late 1770s or early 1780s, such as these examples show.

And I love this gown in the below portrait. Again with the similar front but with the pinked & scalloped collar.

I have two colors of silk taffeta in my stash that may be going into something similar to this.

One is a sea-foam color, the other a rich gold.

Louise Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun??

Timeline For Projects

Also known as the 'GET IT DONE!' list.
This is going to be somewhat of a challenge this Spring, since there are a lot of events going on to eat up my time, but I will try my best.

So, without further ado, here is my first stab at an actual schedule:

- Velvet frock coat, waistcoat and breeches for Anders - Finish date of March 18th

- Georgian stays, bumroll(s) and shift - Finish date of April 20th

- 18th century gown of some kind and hat - Finish date of May 20th

- New Victorian corset (1850s-70s), hoop and bustle - Finish date of June 31st

- The V&A 1870s gown & bonnet - Finish date of July 31st

- **Free project time frame for anything else I want/need to make (finishing the Sisi velvet ensemble, 1930s, 1830s, burlesque costume?)** - August 1st through August 30th

- **BEGIN THE DICKENS FAIR SEWING** - by August 31st

- 1850s day dress (skirt and bodice) - Finish date September 20th

- 1850s mantel and bonnet - Finish date September 31st

- Ladies 1850s-1860s military inspired ensemble - Finish date October 31st at the latest

So, let's see how that actually pans out amongst my real life, re-enactments, burlesque performances and day job work schedule. I'd definitely like to have at least one new ensemble completed for Dickens Fair, before the workshops begin in late October (?).

Yes, I could just start the Dickens stuff now, but the Rococo/18th century stuff must come first. It's been on the back burner for too many years. YEARS. I'm sick of having to shove aside all my 18th century ideas, patterns, fabrics and trimming stash for other era event sewing.
I need my RocoCocaine(tm) fix!