Showing posts with label gown. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gown. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 25, 2012

My turn soon?


The Green?Blue?Turquoise?Teal? Mme Pompadour gown painted by Boucher.
So many people have recreated this ensemble, and while they all have their merits, I need to be blatantly honest.
For myself personally, of all the recreations I've seen (those intending to be direct replicas) there is always something amiss.
Now you might be saying to yourself, "well that's rude of you to say. Someone worked very hard on that gown and you don't have the right...".
Wrong (along with the right of free speech), this is not a post to tear anyone down.
It's one to inspire. Each recreation I have seen of this gown has been great in it's own way, and a wonderful homage to it and the woman who wore it.
I merely have my own vision as to how to go about actually *replicating* such a gown, rather than making a version of it.

The ribbon will prove a challenge; taffeta with a spaced multiple satin stripe and pinked edges all around.
Hmmm...

***Ooh, Edit time! After closer inspection, it looks as though the ribbons actually have a picot edge instead of pinking. The ends do have it, with a double scalloped pinked edge. Looks like I'm going to need to get my man to make me some pinking tools...or at least show me how.

The one thing that has stood out the most when it comes to all the versions I've seen from other seamstresses, is the color and fabric choice.
It will vary from light as a pale blue, to a dark forest green, and everything in between.
Likely this is due to all the images available on the internet, many of which have poor color and resolution, and fail at representing the colors of the original.
My guess on the fabric? It was a bluish green silk taffeta, lighter than the dark green shades I've seen it made in, but definitely more on the green side. I can already tell you that I foresee many fabric swatches in my future.

One must see the actual painting to get an idea of what the true color of her gown was,
and even the color of the paint on the canvas will have changed a little over the centuries.
When will I be able to see this painting in person? Who knows, perhaps never.
I've traveled the globe and have seen nearly all Europe has to offer in its museums, but I somehow missed this particular one.
But, I can at least allow myself a few guesses in this project. Realistically, I won't be able to claim it as a perfectly exact replica if I do attempt it. The exact weave of the silk, the exact shade of the pink ribbon, the curves of the tiny petals on each miniscule rose.
There is simply no way, unless I had an unlimited budget to have these things custom woven and created by insane artisans throughout France and Asia.

The hardest part I think, will be the ribbon that adorns the stomacher and sleeves. But if I'm crafty, and I have a few ideas, I'll be able to have this gown quite close to hers.
The other fun part; recreating the set for the photo shoot ;-)

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

The 1850 Gown

When my gent came home for lunch today, we were able to get a few quick shots in the backyard by the lemon tree.

The fabric I used is a (dare I speak its name) polyester silk blend. I NEVER use polyester in historical sewing, but I decided that due to time and $$ constraints, this would have to do. Blends I generally have no problem with if they have a good hand/drape, the proper crispness if I'm going for a 'silk' look, and if they photograph well (as in, not looking like plastic). My preferred blends if I use them are a silk acetate, or silk cotton.

This one surprised me with how well it worked, but me being the picky type, I still wish I could've used a 100% silk. But I digress....
it's a shot taffeta in a lilac color with black on the cross grain, and has a steely effect. I chose to make the bodice separate from the skirt.
The pattern I based it off of is the Truly Victorian 1845 German Day Dress, which works well for very early 1850-51.
I cut the neckline lower, omitted the reveres, drafted split bell sleeves for it, and left the skirt alone.
Hoops were not worn until around 1855-56, so this has a very fluffy crinoline petticoat underneath.
At Dickens I wore a garibaldi blouse underneath, but left it out for the photos we took. I also made a little detachable fichu collar, to allow the dress a more modest look for daytime and while strolling about the fair.
Otherwise, this is the perfect evening or dinner gown.

The trim is self made from the same fabric, done in the Austrian 'Rosenrusche' style. When the photo viewer opens after you click on an image, right click and 'view image' to see these full size.
Please excuse the sun glare, but it does give an interesting ethereal quality to the images ;-)









With the fichu attached: