Elsa's Snow Queen Gown: Building The Foundation

This weekend is finally free of obligations, so I can focus on the first stages of my Dragon Con costuming. We will be taking a break from the Lagertha battledress for the time being, dear readers, so that I can begin on building my Elsa gown.
The dress will actually be one piece instead of a separate bodice and skirt, and the bodice detail will be comprised of all the sequins, rhinestones and chunky crystals.

I'm starting with a semi-corseted foundation to keep the smooth lines of her dress and bodice, extending well past my hips; something akin to the corsets from between 1912-1916 or so.
I don't necessarily *need* this kind of thing, but I want that extra bit of smoothing power we all know and love from corsets. Plus, it will help me get into character, ensure my posture stays proper, and possibly keep my back from getting angry with me after being on my feet for hours on end.

Fitting what will become the corset foundation.

I'm utilizing 1940s & 50s couture fitting techniques out of a vintage patterning book. The little horizontal center tuck might look odd now, but it will give me a perfect fit through the bust.

And viola! I have my new customized pattern for the corset. Ignore the uneven bottom hem.
This will be figured out in the final construction when I can better determine what shape/length is best. Most likely the boning will extend from the top edge, to just above the hip joint for ease of sitting, with the garment made like a boned micro mini dress.
This will also double as the pattern for the outer layer, too. I'll simply extend and shape the lines of the above pattern pieces into a long, flared, floor-length gown

 Should I get stuck at any point during this whole Dragon Con costuming process, I have a special weapon, thanks to my friend Jenny Storm:

In an emergency, I'll crack open "Elsa's Anti-Panic Sparkling Power Jellybeans".
As backup, I have the "Grenades of Minty Deliciousness".

Elsa's Snow Queen Bodice: Progress

So far so good.
I have all the pieces for the lining and 'outer' shell put together. At least the first layer.
I should mention that the finished bodice will look nothing like the aqua disco ball atrocity in the following photos.
I'm using this as the shimmering deeper turquoise base, and layering lighter materials over it:
a paler aqua shimmer tulle, then all the little rectangular bits, and finally some icy rhinestones
The bottom edge needs reshaping and I had to make the back higher, but the sweetheart neckline turned out fine as is. I still need to fit it a little at the waist, this was taken right after I stitched the outer layer together:

 

 A close up of the animated artwork of Elsa's ice bodice. So many layers and textures!

This could be a fun project or one that will drive me nuts.

Twill core lining and aqua cotton interlining. I'll be building this as close to an actual corset as possible, but a little lighter. No tight lacing for this one, and I'm using a combo of straight and spring steel boning.

This is starting out as Version #1 of this bodice.
Turns out I need it for a few non-burlesque related events sooner rather than later. There's a huge costumed event coming up at Disneyland in May, so yeah, I'm hustling.
After that, this will get turned into the burlesque version (and likely get a zipper put in somewhere) and the extra fancy version will get made separately ;-)
This is just a really thorough mockup.

And She's Off!

I'm starting with the burlesque costume version of my Elsa 'Snow Queen' gown.

This will be a good way to do a mockup of sorts, since this version is a definite stage costume, and won't have to be as perfect as my final version for Dragon Con.

I traced and reshaped the pattern pieces from the Simplicity pattern I used (#5006) for the bodice. About to cut out the turquoise cotton lining:

A Brief Photo Post

I found a couple more photos of the other ensemble I made, taken by my friend RJ Johnson this past weekend at Dickens Fair.
When seeing these photos all I can say is wow, I REALLY need to put stays/boning on those side seams and front darts! The lack of time whilst also completing the Sisi velvet project played a part in that. Still, not too shabby for a somewhat rushed bodice.
I want to find a really nice silky ivory brush fringe to apply to the sleeves, just above the pleating on the cuffs, and around the shoulders going into a 'V' down the front of the bodice. Probably at the bottom edge of the bodice skirt as well.
Like I had mentioned earlier, after Fair is done I'll get some nice full length photos of both outfits.

I was so sleepy that Sunday, heh!

The lovely bonnet is on loan to me from my friend Laura. I need to make a similar one for next year, I have found myself adoring the drawn bonnets of the 1850s.

 The new Dark Garden corset I'm wearing underneath also made me considerably smaller (even though it didn't feel like it!) than the one I had been using previously, and to fit this bodice on. So, the bodice fits a tad looser now, hence some of the wrinkling. The pattern I based it off of also calls for a slight amount of padding between the bust and armscye, to get that hourglass curve into the nipped waistline. Another thing I didn't have time for, but this may also help to smooth things out when I do add it.

The temp. hair color is also fading out nicely, and is even lighter now since these photos were taken. It makes me glad that this is the final weekend of Fair. Any more and it will have faded out to the point that my add-on braids of fake hair no longer match! I'm looking forward to getting back to my own blonde color.

XOXO

Bodice Progress

Here it is as of yesterday evening.

The seams still needed clipping to smooth them out, and a little boning.

I'm taking it with us so I can at least hand sew on the button loops and some of the buttons.

The sleeves are cut out, minus the extra frill, but ready to go on when we get home tomorrow evening. I went with the narrower bell sleeve popular during the early 1850s, that has the slits from the cuff to about the inner bend of the arm.

I also found an antique collar the same ivory as the silk that will work wonderfully at the neck.

Cross your fingers I can finish it by the weekend! The skirt will need to wait until next week, but I have a few skirts that will work for now.

Just a little update,,,

I'm chugging along on the 1850s bodice for Dickens.
The fabric I'm using is an ivory silk taffeta, and is a dream to work with. I've missed using this fabric, it's been a while!
Before you get worried about ivory silk at Dickens fair; not to worry. I'm careful, and I have a shawl.  I can also drape it across me in a bohemian manner while at tea, if I need to ;-)

I'm using the Simplicity mid 1850s pattern #9761 as a guide, but will be doing something else for the sleeves and front.
I may even round out the points of the peplum in front and in back.
As far as commercial patterns go, this one is going together fairly easily, I just wish I'd taken some photos yesterday. I'll post some here when I'm further along on it.

I'm having the hardest time deciding on what sleeve style to do, as there were so many lovely options during the 1850s. I'd love to get away from the typical pagoda style I see everywhere, but still need something that isn't too time consuming.
The bodice front will have faux revers, and little covered buttons all down the front. I'm hoping to use some of the burgundy stripe in the fabric I'll use for the skirt to cover the buttons with. That way I'll have a nice pop of color on top, and it won't look too bridal.
I have some beautiful net lace trim on the way, too, for both the bodice and somewhere on/in the sleeves.

But yes, sleeves.
What style?! The good part is that the sleeves that come with the pattern can easily be tweaked to create any of the following, so at least I have a template that fits the bodice armscye already. The less futzing, the better!
Here are a few concepts rattling around my head as options:

 The tiered sleeves on the gal in blue.

And this plate again, either one of these would be great; puffed or with multiple little cap sleeves.

 And this green dress is just 'effing amazing. Again; puffed sleeves seem to be all the rage, and visually make the waist smaller by contrast.

With the puffed sleeve option, it all depends on how it will look on my frame, so I'll definitely do a quick mock-up first. With the large skirt it could either look fine and balance out, or make me look like a Stay-Puft marshmallow girl.

XOXO

More Waiting...

******UPDATE****

I decided to say "eff it!" since I just found my desired dress form on sale. It's on its way to me now.*****

Things are just against me this month aren't they?
As I was about to begin fitting on my bodice, I realized that I have no dress form. At least one that isn't completely destroyed:

I might be able to tape her together then add padding where needed, just so I can cobble something together to put my stays on for fitting. I want a Uniquely You dress form, but I just can't afford it this month.
Stay with me folks, this could get interesting!

The 2 Day Bodice for 12th Night...

So I finished the pink silk bodice to wear with the existing skirts I had of the same magenta faille taffeta.
By 'finished', I mean it's sewn together and wearable. It looks good now, but there are a few adjustments that I want to make before I wear it a second time.
The seams need to be boned, the puff sleeves might get a few tacks to control the puff into a more ruched look, and it's slightly roomy for me.
I still want to put some decorative buttons up the back over the closure, and put hooks and eyes on both the inside of the bodice and skirts to keep it from riding up. Overall, it turned out pretty good for such a last minute project.

Here are a few photos from the 12th Night Ball. I don't want to share too much until I get the wrinkles out, literally, and take some better photos of the whole gown. Regardless, a grand time was had and everyone looked smashing.

At the royals table, watching a reading by Mr. Charles Dickens

...and champagne....lots of champagne

With Anders Hudson

The Velvet Hussar

So I had decided on the fur and velvet Hussar-inspired promenade gown.
I have all my velvet, my fur material in the form of an old mink coat, linings, all the mohair braid and fittings for closures and details. While I may not be able to replicate this ensemble exactly, given the time, I think I will come pretty close.

 Sisi with her beloved dog, Shadow.

As guides, I am using Truly Victorian patterns TV446 and the free petticoat diagram for the skirt.
I have extended the lines of the bodice into a princess 'coat'.
The upper half of the underskirt will be black cotton, with the velvet material attached just under where the hem of the coat ends. There is no way I want to make the entire skirt of velvet, let alone try to pleat it into a waistband! The stuff wasn't cheap either. This was also a typical way people used to save on expensive fabrics, even the wealthy.
I may even build this over my already existing elliptical hoop, since that is what she is wearing in this 1864 photograph. For Dickens I need a regular circular hoop, but should I ever want to do an accurate portrayal of Sisi for a future photo shoot later, I can have the other option of an elliptical.
I have my muslin cut and ready to go, wish me luck.

Dickens Fair Sewing - My Dress

I've finished other items that need photos, but here are a few progress shots of the 1850 dress I'm currently working on. Hopefully I will finish it by next weekend.
Please excuse the poor photo quality and messy sewing area, it's been stitching mayhem for the last month and a half.

The fabric is a pale lavender/black shot taffeta. Not the greatest quality (it's a silk blend of some kind) but it's what I had plenty of in a pinch, and it has a nice body to it. I did flat line the skirt with a fine cotton.
Unlike the photos, it looks like a pretty rose grey in person.
I'll not be wearing a hoop with this, since hoops weren't generally worn until after about 1855. I'll be relying on crinoline petticoats for fullness, as ladies would have done during the first half of the 1850s. Corded petticoats were also worn, but I don't have time to make one :-}
If the neckline of the bodice seems too open for daytime, it's going to get a detachable collar, in a kind of fichu style. Something like the one in the image below (pink, top center):



Here is the bodice with the sleeves finally on. I decided to do a bell sleeve. The shoulder seam will get some hand pleated trim...


Here's a (horrible) shot with the skirt nearly complete, the bodice edge will also get piping, and the shoulder trim will get a little more treatment into what is fast becoming a signature trimming style of mine...

A Random Find...

After years of seeing this mid to late 1780s jacket style bodice through my various books and travels (I've seen it in person), I stumbled across some hi res images of it from the Kyoto digital archives last night.
Then today, while searching for waistcoat fabric for a Dickens Fair ensemble, I stumbled across the perfect fabric for it in Santa Cruz.

I also have very two very similar patterns for this in Norah Waugh's book, The Cut Of Women's Clothes...so while this is one for the back burner, it will get made. I swear!

The original:


A close up of the original fabric:
Note how the wider, colorful stripe is slightly raised.


My fabric:
I will be using the broader stripe on the vertical, like the original. While it's not an exact match to the one above, I have seen late 18th century textiles with the dotted stripe such as here.


I am also drawn to purples and lavenders, so this one naturally caught my eye.
Perhaps I'll pair it with an off white or ivory skirt in a sheer cotton over a solid backing? I'll have to shop my historic resources, which is always fun ;-)

Bodice nearly done...

Totally different look with a printed fabric. I'm really liking how the motifs are situated on the front.

Dirndl #2 in the works...

The bodice. Nothing different than the previous burgundy one, it's the same cut. The fabric here is what makes it unique and still traditional. A turn-of-the-century French print from Provence, Germans during the 1920s through 1950s were crazy for cotton florals like this one...

Dirndl Dress Project: Part V

The dress is hemmed, the apron is done, and I've started making the trim for the neckline...which is an odd combination of being both fun and tedious to create from the dress fabrics. This first piece was a test to see weather or not the fabrics were too thick. It worked, but I have a lot more of it I need to make...

Front placket

On the front of the dirndl dress skirt. Not on a seam. This is one of those tricky sewing things that is akin to explaining, without pictures, how to tie shoelaces. I'd like to do a tutorial on just this in the future.

The Dirndl Project: Part III

The bodice is done (!!), with the exception of the buttons/buttonholes down the front.
Next up; the skirt. Hope to have that done and attached to the bodice tonight.



The back...

The Dirndl Project: Part II

As promised, here are a few photos of the current dirndl dress I'm working on.
Not horribly exciting yet, but the bodice is coming along nicely.

The light I have to work with is very odd during the day here, so excuse the colors.
The burgundy red cotton photographs REALLY red, or really dark, and the grey looks different in every shot.

One of my favorite tools ever; my pinking shears, used to not only keep a fabric edge from fraying easily, it adds a pretty touch too.


Front bodice outer pieces sewn together, complete with cute li'l boobie gusset...


Lining and outer fabric pressed and ready to be sewn together...


And voila! Half the front of a dirndl dress bodice...


More on the way xoxo

Dirndl Drafting

Once again, I'm working on a project or two that has a style rooted in the 17th and 18th centuries, but takes a path from my general theme here.
With Oktoberfest fast approaching, I'm making traditional (or close to it) dirndl dresses for a few lovely folks. Here is one all drafted and ready to be cut. I'll post progress on this and following dirndls as they take shape.

Here's a snippet of history on the dirndl dress:
http://dirndl-dress.com/dirndlhistory.php

Beautiful Bodices....