A Few More Photos...

Slowly cleaning up the mess left after the Dickens Fair madness. My sewing area looks as though a bomb hit it, as it does every year at this time. The plan is to start on the 18th century projects again, before some other event rears its ugly head, and requires a new rushed costume.

Since I can't resist sharing more photos, here are some extras. Many thanks to my friend Anders for the photographic assistance.
This isn't so much because they are pics of me and my outfit, but more for the simple reason that the location is so lovely! I still can't get over the fact that this is just 15 minutes from my front door...

Holiday At The Villa; Empress Elisabeth In Velvet And Mink

My reproduction of Empress Elisabeth of Austria's velvet and mink ensemble is complete, and now I have some glorious photos to share. I had also just gotten over the flu, so it was nice to get outside for some fresh air and a walk.
My friend, Anders was generous enough to take the photos at a favorite location. Villa Montalvo is practically in my backyard.
It's stunningly beautiful and not only reminds me of some of the smaller summer palaces in Austria, but even a few villas located in the more southern areas of Europe. Places Sisi may have often escaped to on her many travels.
This creation is by no means perfect, and there are some things that I would have fixed if I'd had the time. Here are a few notes on the costume for the nit-pickers like myself:

- Yes, the skirt isn't as long, wide or voluminous as Sisi's was in the original photographs. This costume was intended to be, and was, worn for a role played at Dickens Fair. It needed to be a true walking style skirt, and hoops were required to be under a maximum circumference of 110 inches. No more. And no elliptical hoops were allowed either, so I was forced to make this skirt a more 1850s shape
- Indeed, I'm not wearing gloves. Neither was Sisi in the photos and even though I'm outside, I'm not sure Sisi would have cared much either ;-)
- The hat is a bit different than hers. I decided that since I did not have the time or the materials to create an exact replica of the one she wears in the photos, this other historically accurate version would do. It's also a style I think she would have appreciated, wit the cute little mink pom-poms in back.
- I'm glad we did the shoot when we did, since the deep chestnut color I put on my tresses is already fading quite rapidly. It's now officially a dark blonde, yet closer to what Sisi's color was like. While my own hair has gotten quite long, it's nowhere near as long as hers was. So, the braids you see are actually hairpieces I added to my own. These are a much lighter shade than the darker ones I wore for Dickens. I knew my color would fade quickly since it's a semi permanent. By chance, these ended up a surprisingly good color match.

I will be breaking this up into two entries, as there are a lot of images. There are just so many pretty areas to shoot in at this location, and the late-day light was beautiful.
Without further ado, and a happy Christmas to you: the photos.

 

Part II coming soon!

The Velvet Hussar: Empress Elisabeth At The Great Dickens Fair

This is somewhat of a sneak peek of the gown as it made its maiden voyage this past weekend at The Great Dickens Fair for Royals Day. While I still wish to get a few posed photos of the gown showing the full length standing, there are some lovely shots below. These were taken by Laurie Tavan (who is also one of three lovely ladies this year that play Queen Victoria) and her Husband Jeremy.
Much love and thanks to my dear friend, Laura, who assisted me as Countess Carolyn de Lamberg, lady in waiting to Empress Elisabeth. She created an amazing Miesbacher tracht (tradtional Miesbacher ensemble) to wear for the occasion.

At some point I would like to make another fuller, longer velvet skirt for this ensemble, since this one had to be made to maneuver through a crowded Dickens Fair. Larger hoops are not allowed for good reason, but I have a good sized elliptical hoop hanging in my closet that would do well.
I even have the desire to make her velvet dress with the lace jabot someday. It may have actually been what 'Sisi' was wearing underneath the coat for those photographs, which were taken in the same studio.
It might be worth it to just make that entire gown anyway, if I ever choose to work with that much velvet again.

 An audience with HRH Queen Victoria at the Adventurer's club

 

Mackenzie as Empress Eugiene, Laura Erlich as Countess Carolyn de Lamberg (my lady in waiting) and yours truly; Sisi.

 Leaving The Adventurer's Club

 Lovely ladies (left to right): Laura, me, Amy Lambert as Queen Victoria, Mackenzie, Laurie Tavan

We ended the day with a formal toast at the Adventurer's Club.

A few Progress Photos...Almost There.

 

 Placing the templates for the passementerie detail on the sleeves.

Endless pins to attach a seemingly endless amount of mohair braid on the skirt of the coat.

Also; I am going to need to lint brush the hell out of this thing when I'm done.

The Velvet Hussar: Nearly Complete!

I'm proud to say that as of tonight (or tomorrow evening), my reproduction of Empress Elisabeth's velvet and fur winter ensemble will be done!
Saturday will be its debut as I will be presented to HRH Queen Victoria, at Dickens Fair for Royals Day.
Of course I have no real photos of anything yet since I've been so busy finishing it up, but here is a photo of the matching hat I finished this afternoon during my lunch hour (sorry for the poor image quality):

In the original photograph of 'Sisi' wearing this outfit, her hat was a similar shape and style, with what looks like a little mink fur decoration at one side (away from the camera). Hers had more of an upturned close brim. Frustratingly, I didn't have the time or ability to replicate her hat this year, but was able to make one in the same vein. Instead of at the side, I put a looped velvet bow tipped with little mink pom poms at the center back. The rest of the hat is black sinmay covered with the same black velveteen as the gown in a softly gathered toque style with a little Hungarian flair.

Below is one of the 8 appliques I hand beaded to go on the front of the coat. These are a base for the covered toggles that the cord loops across the front attach to.

From the original set of photographs. You can see the little sprout of fur to the right on her hat:

'Sisi' with Shadow.

The lace collar on the blouse I wore last year will work perfectly for underneath, and I've added some lace frill to the cuffs as well.

In this image, it's easier to make out the daisy-shaped & beaded motifs under the toggles on her bodice.

 My skirt will not be trained long in back. You have no idea how much I wish it could be. But I needed to make it shorter because well, it's the Cow Palace/Dickens Fair. While the ground isn't atrociously dirty with mud etc. (but still pretty heinous) the risk of having my hem accidentally stepped on by patrons and players alike is too risky.

Oh and by the way; I went so far as to *DYE MY HAIR* for this.
Maybe not just for this Sisi project alone, but for fun too. I had to bite the bullet and did it on Tuesday evening before I allowed myself to chicken out. My own blonde locks will be in hiding, gradually making their way back out over the next few months, as I slowly and gently get the darker semi-permanent shade of chestnut out.

Check it!:

Gruß vom Krampus!

...and a happy new year!

Dickens Fair is over, the house is a mess of fabric scraps and costume bits from the sewing and being too exhausted or ill to do any real cleaning in between.

During the fair's run, I wasn't able to complete my velvet Sisi ensemble, but did create the velvet skirt for it, plus a couple of alternative items to wear; a black taffeta over-skirt, a blouse and another full length skirt.

Hopefully there will be photos surfacing of me actually wearing these items, or when the weather clears a bit, maybe I will have Anders help me take some new photos.

Already, plans for next year's outfits are on the drawing board, and my friends Laura and Caitlyn of Curse Words And Crinolines have plans for matching ensembles of awesomeness ;-)

Like last year, I felt out-of-sorts with my clothing. I didn't have enough time in my sewing area to really create some new pieces. I wasn't able to start the majority of my sewing until the last weekend of pre-Dickens workshops. This next year will be different, and I'd like to make more ensembles that require less fussing with them throughout the day. With the rush to complete things, I ended up having to use pins instead of actual closures, and no real time to make sure everything was comfortable to wear all day.

I'll need a new hoop petticoat, too, that can hold the weight of heavier fabrics and give a more historical shape and size. Mine, while very nice, is larger and built for lighter garments and modern bridal wear. It has only 4 hoops in a fabric casing, so it can't hold anything heavier than lightweight fabrics like taffeta and cotton.

I've sourced and purchased some of the materials to make at least one of next year's dresses, but as promised, this blog shall once again go forth into the 18th century!!

Perhaps a set of velveteen breeches and frock coat will be completed, and my gowns, hats and accessories will follow!

I am so excited to be starting on a different era after so much hoop era immersion over the holidays.

 XOXO

P.S. Now, what do I wear for the Twelfth Night ball in just a few weeks?!

The Velvet Hussar: The Skirt

Last night after work, I dove into an attempt to finish my velvet skirt.
I did pretty well, actually. The pleats are secured to the waistband, the hem is even after a little trimming here and there, and the hem tape is stitched to the raw edge of the hem as well....and that's as far as I got.

This skirt is heavy, and I definitely need to put my hoop on an actual waistband. I may even need to put more steel in my hoop by way of a few more hoops.
Here she is so far (once again on my too-big-for-me dress form) without a hem:

More Insanity By Choice

This is only my 2nd or 3rd time doing cartridge pleats for a skirt, and this is probably the most fabric I've ever had to pleat to a waistband; 8+ yards of black cotton.

At least I found, in my wondrous stash, a heavy grosgrain and silk satin covered fabric belt. It's perfect for this heavy velvet skirt that needs a heavier foundation to hang from. While only the lower half of the skirt is made of the velvet (it would be much too thick to pleat and fit the bulk into the waistband), it already weighs a good amount. I am seriously considering putting a waistband on my hoop petticoat. The drawstring seems like it would be much too weak to hold the weight of the skirt, and coat skirts of velvet and fur, for any extended amount of time

I also took a break from this and made a fitted blouse today from a lightweight cotton sateen. This is not only something to wear under the Sisi velvet ensemble, but as part of an alternative outfit to wear this year at Dickens Fair. 

More photos of this soon. The dress form in the photo is actually about a size or two bigger than I am, but I just needed one that wasn't broken (like the one I was using that *is my size) to take photos on.

I used the Truly Victorian 1860s Darted Bodice - TV446, and extended the length from the waistline. I literally just added extra at will, which is why the hem is all crazy in back. I will even this out, but the little tail that happened in back is actually kind of cute

There are a few details I want to add during the week; a vintage lace collar and perhaps pleated or ruffled cuffs of the same fabric.

I'm also hoping that I can get a separate overskirt and swiss waist made by next weekend to wear with the above skirt and blouse at Dickens next weekend. Cross your fingers folks.

The Sisi ensemble is nearly done, but the finishing details on the coat are killing me.

The Velvet Hussar - Details

The fur hem is nearly complete.
I swear, when this part alone is done I'm going to dance around the house in victory!

In order to stitch the top edge of the fur to the coat, and get a nice roll-under of the pelt edge, I needed to machine some black bias tape to it. After folding it over, I had not only a nice clean edge to work with, but something much easier for thread and needle to sew securely to.

 

I am definitely taking the lint brush to the entire thing when all is done. So much fuzz...

Let The Fur Fly...

Tedious.
That is the word for this current costume project, but not impossible.
To some, the mere idea of this project caused a few people to politely and helpfully suggest alternative ensembles, but I stood firm.
I agree with many of the warnings given by my peers, but truly, it's not that bad.
It's just time consuming, and now my only worry is finishing on time.
The hardest part thus far; the fur trim on the hem of the coat.
Shaping it so that it fits the curve of the hemline smoothly, with only so much fur to use, has been a lesson in (even more) patience in hand sewing.

The underside of the fur hem with slashed 'darts' pinned in place...

 

After darts have been stitched securely, this is what you get on the pretty side...and hope there isn't too much variation in the fur texture over those spots

At least the faint stripe in the mink fur is matching up for the most part.
Hopefully I can get a good amount more of it done tonight because after that, all I have to do is flip it over, and secure the top edge of the fur trim to the coat. The bottom edge of the pelt is already machined onto the hem.
At least I could do that much on my machine.

Ugh...I shall prove victorious!

The Velvet Hussar Gown: Part III

 So the sleeves are on and I decided to start in on some of the fur trim. At least to salvage and size up the long shawl collar front piece. Armed with a felt marker and an exacto knife, I began the surgery that is re-purposing a vintage mink fur coat. 

If you have ever seen the inside of a fur coat without its lining, it is insanity:

Here is the front shawl collar just draped and pinned onto the front of the coat for an idea of what I'm going for. The bottom edge of the coat will also be trimmed in this mink, and the sleeves will have mink cuffs (please excuse the creepy mannequin head in the bottom right corner):

 

The monogram that was embroidered onto the lining of the fur coat I used is stunning. The Initials read ONM, and every time I find a vintage monogrammed item, I like to imagine what the owner's name may have been. Olivia, Olive, Ophelia, Olga, Octavia, Odette?

Perhaps I'll make a little cushion from the silk, with this at its center:

The Velvet Hussar Gown: Part II

I made a lot of progress on Sisi's velvet ensemble today.
There was only one near tragedy; I had accidentally cut one of the princess coat panels with the nap of the velvet going up instead of down. So I had to re-cut it and use up more fabric than I had wanted to.
Still, I think I have plenty to go into the lower panels of the skirt. I ordered an extra yard though, just in case.
The bodice to about hip level is flat-lined in a black cotton twill.

Here she is shown over my new hoop petticoat, again with no sleeves yet and not much to look at. I will wrangle the sleeves on tomorrow:

Sisi's "Velvet Hussar" Gown: Mockup Part I

Here is what I have as a muslin mockup for the coat portion of the ensemble, sans sleeves. Pretty good so far! Only a couple of minor adjustments needed; I moved the outer dart down a smidge on the front and took it in a bit more (see darts at left side of bodice). This is because I have a longer torso than the natural waistline of the original bodice pattern I used.

The Velvet Hussar

So I had decided on the fur and velvet Hussar-inspired promenade gown.
I have all my velvet, my fur material in the form of an old mink coat, linings, all the mohair braid and fittings for closures and details. While I may not be able to replicate this ensemble exactly, given the time, I think I will come pretty close.

 Sisi with her beloved dog, Shadow.

As guides, I am using Truly Victorian patterns TV446 and the free petticoat diagram for the skirt.
I have extended the lines of the bodice into a princess 'coat'.
The upper half of the underskirt will be black cotton, with the velvet material attached just under where the hem of the coat ends. There is no way I want to make the entire skirt of velvet, let alone try to pleat it into a waistband! The stuff wasn't cheap either. This was also a typical way people used to save on expensive fabrics, even the wealthy.
I may even build this over my already existing elliptical hoop, since that is what she is wearing in this 1864 photograph. For Dickens I need a regular circular hoop, but should I ever want to do an accurate portrayal of Sisi for a future photo shoot later, I can have the other option of an elliptical.
I have my muslin cut and ready to go, wish me luck.

Sewing ADD Or A Full Plate

'Tis the season.
Dickens Fair is just around the corner, and while I thought I'd bow out of any official presence in character, this year, it looks like I will be after all. At least part-time.
My mind was made up as soon as it was known to me that the character I had suggested presenting, was OK'd.
Empress Elisabeth of Austria. Also affectionately known as Sisi.

I'm ecstatic, yet a bit intimidated.
I have a good chunk of *more* sewing to do, but I can breathe a little easier knowing that Ander's will be doing the lion's share of his own costuming/sewing this year. I just want to finish a tailcoat I had started for him last year.

So, I am Sisi.

Being Bavarian/Austrian myself, I have a lot of source material and was practically raised on stories and images of Sisi. I may need to brush up on details of her travels and those she regularly 'hung out' with, but I have a pretty good head-start.

Hair: I'll need to go a bit darker than my current shade, but her dark blond is very close to my natural color.
I'm considering a temporary color, so I don't kill my tresses with a high lift developer trying to remove it after the the holidays.
I'll be investing in hair pieces too, to get that bountiful braided look she was so famous for. hopefully I can use human hair for the majority of it, since I can't stand the overly shininess of synthetic hair.

The outfit(s?):
Oh lordy. Where do I begin?
I already have an idea of what I want to make, but it has to be seasonally appropriate too. No Worth star gown for me (not that I'd want to tackle that project right now. I have, actually and it's been on the back burner).
Skirt, blouse and Swiss waist?
Or an ocean of midnight velveteen?
Do I make one or both given the time I have?
Additionally; it can get stuffy and downright warm at Dickens. Do I want to be wearing 15 pounds of velvet?
Incorporating the two outfits and making it 'convertible' to the blouse underneath the velvet ensemble, might be a good option when the temperature rises.

Images that are currently inspiring me:

The velveteen options:

Excuse the colorized photo below, but this is the skirt blouse combo in question. The level of actual detail on the blouse in this image is lost, but it gives a general idea: