Elsa's Snow Queen Gown: Building The Foundation

This weekend is finally free of obligations, so I can focus on the first stages of my Dragon Con costuming. We will be taking a break from the Lagertha battledress for the time being, dear readers, so that I can begin on building my Elsa gown.
The dress will actually be one piece instead of a separate bodice and skirt, and the bodice detail will be comprised of all the sequins, rhinestones and chunky crystals.

I'm starting with a semi-corseted foundation to keep the smooth lines of her dress and bodice, extending well past my hips; something akin to the corsets from between 1912-1916 or so.
I don't necessarily *need* this kind of thing, but I want that extra bit of smoothing power we all know and love from corsets. Plus, it will help me get into character, ensure my posture stays proper, and possibly keep my back from getting angry with me after being on my feet for hours on end.

Fitting what will become the corset foundation.

I'm utilizing 1940s & 50s couture fitting techniques out of a vintage patterning book. The little horizontal center tuck might look odd now, but it will give me a perfect fit through the bust.

And viola! I have my new customized pattern for the corset. Ignore the uneven bottom hem.
This will be figured out in the final construction when I can better determine what shape/length is best. Most likely the boning will extend from the top edge, to just above the hip joint for ease of sitting, with the garment made like a boned micro mini dress.
This will also double as the pattern for the outer layer, too. I'll simply extend and shape the lines of the above pattern pieces into a long, flared, floor-length gown

 Should I get stuck at any point during this whole Dragon Con costuming process, I have a special weapon, thanks to my friend Jenny Storm:

In an emergency, I'll crack open "Elsa's Anti-Panic Sparkling Power Jellybeans".
As backup, I have the "Grenades of Minty Deliciousness".

Stripes And Flourishes

Here are the 2 center back pieces of my current Robe a L'Anglaise project put together. I must say I did a fine job at matching those stripes! Thanks to that and the design, I even have what looks like a little ladybug at the bottom of that first 'V'; too cute.

The fabric really is lovely, but I think for 18th century dress fabric, the repeat is a smidgen too wide.
Oh well, it's still pretty, and a good fabric to test out this pattern.
I can hear that line in the back of my mind from 'Amadeus' telling me, well..."it's Turkish!"

I also want to find a nice rich red silk taffeta to make a petticoat and tabbed stomacher for the zone front.
Somewhere in my stash, I also have some ivory silk organza that I can hear begging to be ruched sleeve cuffs.

And below is the side/front bodice piece as I was figuring out what direction I wanted the stripe to go.

Though it looks odd now, once the zone is cut away and the trimming applied, etc, it should look just dandy.

Robe a L'Anglaise: Bodice Mock-up, Or The Dart Of Possible Doom?

I was finally able to get to fitting the muslin mock-up of the JP Ryan pattern for my robe a l'Anglaise today.
Also utilizing my new Uniquely You dress form; I still need to do more fitting on her to get her closer to my uncorseted shape, but with my pair of (crappy) 18th century stays, she did just fine as a fitting reference.

At the fabric store today, I also picked up some cotton linen, for both a chemise and lining for the bodice. Though, I may want to pick up something a tad heavier to line the bodice.
While my muslin currently has the closed front, I will be making this dress as a polonaise with a zone front, in the very late 1770s style.

My own odd fitting technique, as I am not sure I have ever seen anyone do this, was to instead take in the excess fabric in what would be considered the "middle" of the front bodice piece making a dart or tuck. The front and sides of the bodice are cut as one in this particular pattern, and I have been wracking my brain as to where I have ever seen a gown from this era with true side seams.
I'm sure I have, but either way, this is an option that worked for me.
As someone with an "X" body type, when corseted or in stays, my waistline-to-bust ratio increases even more. This always means I need to take in the waist on just about every pattern I sew from quite drastically if I'm going by bust measurement. This was no different, and after fiddling with the back seams, it seemed to just make the wrinkling worse...it's about here where I begin to call them "wrong-kles".
It's as if the pattern makes up a shapeless tube completely ignoring the soft, and in some cases extreme, conical shape of the classic 18th century bodice.
I also extended the back point to a slightly longer length, creating a more flattering and slenderizing line.

So out of curiosity, and I probably did this in the most wrong way possible according to fellow seamstresses; I made a dart where a side seam would be. This took in all the excess "wrong-kles" and created a smooth fit.
So far so good. At least the fashion fabric I'm using is a cute cotton print I picked up on sale and not totally historically accurate. If I screw this up, I won't be out much cash.....but nonetheless frustrated.

The 'tuck'...am I a total rebel or have others done this too?

Note that this tuck will not be in the final bodice, but I will be using this as the new front pattern piece for it. You can also see how the tuck created a sharper arch at the waistline edge, yet in many extant gowns and bodices, I have seen this. I may smooth it out a bit more as I go, lessening the Gothic arch onto a more Romanesque one, but once those edges are clipped and turned, it'll straighten out on it's own.

More Waiting...

******UPDATE****

I decided to say "eff it!" since I just found my desired dress form on sale. It's on its way to me now.*****

Things are just against me this month aren't they?
As I was about to begin fitting on my bodice, I realized that I have no dress form. At least one that isn't completely destroyed:

I might be able to tape her together then add padding where needed, just so I can cobble something together to put my stays on for fitting. I want a Uniquely You dress form, but I just can't afford it this month.
Stay with me folks, this could get interesting!