Robe a L'Anglaise: Bodice Mock-up, Or The Dart Of Possible Doom?

I was finally able to get to fitting the muslin mock-up of the JP Ryan pattern for my robe a l'Anglaise today.
Also utilizing my new Uniquely You dress form; I still need to do more fitting on her to get her closer to my uncorseted shape, but with my pair of (crappy) 18th century stays, she did just fine as a fitting reference.

At the fabric store today, I also picked up some cotton linen, for both a chemise and lining for the bodice. Though, I may want to pick up something a tad heavier to line the bodice.
While my muslin currently has the closed front, I will be making this dress as a polonaise with a zone front, in the very late 1770s style.

My own odd fitting technique, as I am not sure I have ever seen anyone do this, was to instead take in the excess fabric in what would be considered the "middle" of the front bodice piece making a dart or tuck. The front and sides of the bodice are cut as one in this particular pattern, and I have been wracking my brain as to where I have ever seen a gown from this era with true side seams.
I'm sure I have, but either way, this is an option that worked for me.
As someone with an "X" body type, when corseted or in stays, my waistline-to-bust ratio increases even more. This always means I need to take in the waist on just about every pattern I sew from quite drastically if I'm going by bust measurement. This was no different, and after fiddling with the back seams, it seemed to just make the wrinkling worse...it's about here where I begin to call them "wrong-kles".
It's as if the pattern makes up a shapeless tube completely ignoring the soft, and in some cases extreme, conical shape of the classic 18th century bodice.
I also extended the back point to a slightly longer length, creating a more flattering and slenderizing line.

So out of curiosity, and I probably did this in the most wrong way possible according to fellow seamstresses; I made a dart where a side seam would be. This took in all the excess "wrong-kles" and created a smooth fit.
So far so good. At least the fashion fabric I'm using is a cute cotton print I picked up on sale and not totally historically accurate. If I screw this up, I won't be out much cash.....but nonetheless frustrated.

The 'tuck'...am I a total rebel or have others done this too?

Note that this tuck will not be in the final bodice, but I will be using this as the new front pattern piece for it. You can also see how the tuck created a sharper arch at the waistline edge, yet in many extant gowns and bodices, I have seen this. I may smooth it out a bit more as I go, lessening the Gothic arch onto a more Romanesque one, but once those edges are clipped and turned, it'll straighten out on it's own.

More Waiting...

******UPDATE****

I decided to say "eff it!" since I just found my desired dress form on sale. It's on its way to me now.*****

Things are just against me this month aren't they?
As I was about to begin fitting on my bodice, I realized that I have no dress form. At least one that isn't completely destroyed:

I might be able to tape her together then add padding where needed, just so I can cobble something together to put my stays on for fitting. I want a Uniquely You dress form, but I just can't afford it this month.
Stay with me folks, this could get interesting!

A Day Off And The House To Myself....

What!? 18th century sewing actually underway?!
This is just a test of the JP Ryan Robe a l'Anglaise pattern, with some almost-proper cotton print I had lying around.

I currently have a crappy pair of stays I'm forced to use for fitting purposes. They will work until I can make a better pair.

A Spring Of Choices, Failures And Hopeful Success

I've been bad.
No posts in a long while. My apologies.
No real sewing to speak of either. Once again, life and other events got in the way.

This needs to change NOW.
Any sewing for Dickens Fair this year, will be put aside. Way aside, and if I even attend Dickens this year, the costuming will be limited to finishing a project for Dickens I already started.
On that note; I regret that due to multiple reasons, I must only *attend* Dickens Fair this year rather than be involved full time. Perhaps this will change depending on how things start to take shape with friends who are involved in making positive changes and new ventures within the fair. I want to help in this mission, but I will likely not be there as a cast member this year.

I need to take care of life, and sew for my own enjoyment first.
Any events that happen to occur where an ensemble I've made this year, or have in my closet that fits the theme already, will likely take precedence.
The only era I truly want to and see myself sewing hard for this year, is the 18th century and more 1930s. There may even be some 18th century events I will at least use as goal dates for those sewing list projects that relate.

AND, to top it all off, I have been given the Very Inspiring Blogger Award by Loren Dearborn of

The Costumer's Closet.

I really need to get my sh*t together now. Currently, I think this blog of mine isn't that inspiring, but thank you so much Loren!

I promise to do the required blog award post asap.

I'm really just rambling at this point, and trying to nail down my thoughts and plans in dealing with this situation.
I want to also let you folks know where I am on this project list of mine, and weather or not I will actually be producing something for you to see, not just read about.
There are amazing things I want to create and show you.
I read about other peoples lists of projects and how they are completing them. All the stunning things they are creating and showing off with gorgeous photos....and I hate it.
I'm still working on Anders' ensemble. I'm about to give up if they don't fit him, and just finish the frock coat instead. I will pay to have someone else make him those confusing and tedious-as-hell 18th century breeches!

I feel stuck beneath layers of other events that seem to suddenly materialize out of nowhere, and get scheduled back to back.
Some are more important than others, and some so important that even at the last minute I decide to drop everything to attend.
If only it were just the work week I had to balance my sewing time with. I never could have realized how nuts the spring season would get until now. Since February we became caught up in these other events, the worst allergy season in recent history for my area, dealing with our dog's sudden flea dilemma that threatened to overtake our entire home (no more trips to the countryside for her, until we can find a damn good repellent), and just now I have recovered from a nasty spring flu that made me want to do nothing but curl up into a ball and die.

Excuses, excuses.
But it's one thing after another it seems, and along with that I don't put my foot down often enough, or hard enough with myself when deciding on how much I can pile onto my plate.
I've even thought about taking a hiatus from burlesque for the rest of the year after May, until I can create new acts and the costumes to go with them.
I've even entertained the thought of quitting burlesque altogether, for various other reasons, but I just can't.
Perhaps after my hiatus, I'll even return under my other stage name, Edel Vice, full time ja?

The possibilities are endless, I just need to grab them and hold on a lot tighter.
And I'll be missing Costume College again this year! Dammit.

Timeline For Projects

Also known as the 'GET IT DONE!' list.
This is going to be somewhat of a challenge this Spring, since there are a lot of events going on to eat up my time, but I will try my best.

So, without further ado, here is my first stab at an actual schedule:

- Velvet frock coat, waistcoat and breeches for Anders - Finish date of March 18th

- Georgian stays, bumroll(s) and shift - Finish date of April 20th

- 18th century gown of some kind and hat - Finish date of May 20th

- New Victorian corset (1850s-70s), hoop and bustle - Finish date of June 31st

- The V&A 1870s gown & bonnet - Finish date of July 31st

- **Free project time frame for anything else I want/need to make (finishing the Sisi velvet ensemble, 1930s, 1830s, burlesque costume?)** - August 1st through August 30th

- **BEGIN THE DICKENS FAIR SEWING** - by August 31st

- 1850s day dress (skirt and bodice) - Finish date September 20th

- 1850s mantel and bonnet - Finish date September 31st

- Ladies 1850s-1860s military inspired ensemble - Finish date October 31st at the latest

So, let's see how that actually pans out amongst my real life, re-enactments, burlesque performances and day job work schedule. I'd definitely like to have at least one new ensemble completed for Dickens Fair, before the workshops begin in late October (?).

Yes, I could just start the Dickens stuff now, but the Rococo/18th century stuff must come first. It's been on the back burner for too many years. YEARS. I'm sick of having to shove aside all my 18th century ideas, patterns, fabrics and trimming stash for other era event sewing.
I need my RocoCocaine(tm) fix!

Deco Delights...

Some of you on Facebook may have already seen these photos, but here are a few shots of our mini 1930s flash mob at the Elmwood cafe. It's an historic location in Berkley CA, originally a soda shop built in 1921, that now serves as a great cafe. The coffee and teas is wonderful, and their pot pies served on Thursday evenings are to die for!

Left to right: Daniel Silveria, Autumn Adamme, Anders Hudson, Vienna La Rouge (me), Masha Sergeyeva, Frank Slade, Thena MacArthur, Laura Erlich, Jeffery Mosher

Current Doings...

No gown sewing just yet, but I have had time to make a new hat!
Some friends and I are putting together a casual meet up at a historical cafe in Berkley, CA...but dressed for the 1930s ;-) This inspired me to finally get on a smaller project I've been meaning to do. I have a lot of black hats from the 1930s, and I just needed something different. Since I have just enough time, I might as well get a new one done for this little shindig.

A few years ago, I found a really basic hat at a thrift shop in Santa Cruz for about $20.
The label was a semi-high end designer, but the hat was essentially an unblocked capeline (for the 'boho' look, I'm sure) of exquisite burgundy velour felt. I grabbed it with the intention of either blocking it, or cutting and stitching it into a new creation, and it has been in my stash until now.

I chose to make a mid 1930s look by using the crown of the original hat, and cutting pieces from the remaining felt to make a sculpted brim, in a style that sits close to the head with a nice swoop to one side.
A little stitching and a dig through my random findings stash for the little arrow pin, and voila! I have a new hat that looks like a never-worn vintage design.
I think I will be doing a lot more of these hats! Keep an eye on my Etsy shop too ;-)

I apologize for the 'un-done' hair and horrible photos. Hopefully better ones will follow soon:

 I love the little dove tail effect that happened in back.