Showing posts with label futzing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label futzing. Show all posts

Thursday, December 25, 2014

End-Of-Year Update Part I

Happy Yule to everyone!

As the holidays ramp up toward the new year, here\"s an update on what I\"ve been up to since I last posted here. Hold on tight, it\"s a long one. First up; the dress(es) conundrum...




Ballgown bodice pre-seam clipping, hence the bunching on the dart seams.

For Dickens Fair this year, I decided to take time away from participating as a cast member and focus on sewing. Even so, other performances and costuming ended up taking much of my time away from my goal of creating a fabulous pastel frou-frou 1830s ensemble. My friend Laura and I were planning on attending the final weekend together in these outfits. Unfortunately time ran out for me, but that really wasn\"t the final reason why I didn\"t use the pale blue silk taffeta for such a project. More on that in a bit.

On Saturday in the middle of the afternoon before Laura arrived to meet me (after spending the morning rushing to finish her outfit), Anders became violently ill.

He played Bill Sykes with the Oliver Twist cast this year, and was feeling right as rain Saturday morning. That is, until he ate some tainted food from one of the vendors for lunch. He was so sick I feared that I’d need to take him to an ER. When the worst of it passed after about 3-4 hours, I got him in the car and we just went home. I spent that Sunday looking out for any recurring symptoms that might surface, but he was almost normal by Sunday night. He’d had just four french fries on Saturday that made him feel "funny" about 30 minutes after eating them, then he blacked out, came to and was violently ill multiple times. Later we heard more than a few other people had come down with the same symptoms that same day, and it’s strongly suspected that it was botulism(!) from poor food handling and tainted ingredients.

So while we enjoyed those few earlier hours at Dickens on Saturday, Laura and I never had the chance to wreak Frou-frou havoc together.

It was also due to two other less intense factors:

1.) I had initially purchased the silk with the intent of FINALLY making myself an 1850s or 1860s ballgown, and while I could have made the 1830s day dress convertible into the 1850s ballgown, I would have had to do some major futzing that would likely compromise the design I wanted for my ballgown.

2.) After weighing the risks, I didn\"t want to wear this pale and wondrous silk fabric at Dickens, where patrons are walking around with drinks, the ground is dirty and hemlines suffer, small children and adults alike with grimy hands that like to shove in crowded areas and patrons are often walking around with food. I didn\"t want to subject my future mid Victorian dream ballgown to any of that.

Last year I had a pale colored dress and a patron spilled food on the skirt. I had to have it dry cleaned and even though they couldn\"t get all of the stain out, it was expensive. Luckily the stripe pattern in the fabric helps hide the faint stain, but I don\"t want to go through that again.

 If we do attempt the pastel 1830s madness thing again next year, I\"ll make it out of something more easily washed. I had initially thought about getting a synthetic taffeta for this, but cost-wise I\"d already spent my costuming funds on the silk.

Next year I\"ll make the 1830s dress in a good quality silk blend, or a lined sheer blue cotton. This isn\"t that I\"m a fabric snob, but synthetics get really warm at Dickens Fair and it can be downright sweltering indoors when the crowds are their thickest.

Natural, breathable fabrics are the way to go. As long as I can hand wash or put it through the delicate cycle in cold water and drip dry, I\"m comfortable with wearing an all-over solid pale color at Dickens Fair.
So in the end, I took this dress and made a few changes.

I removed the sleeves from the bodice, and replaced them with my own altered version of the gigot sleeves from the Truly Victorian 1830s dress pattern. I made them out of a slightly contrasting fabric to the dress. It used to be a grey pink shot taffeta skirt I\"d made 2 years earlier, and wore once.

Then I took some of the trim from the old sleeves, and used that to trim the gathered areas and the shoulder seams of the new sleeves.



The skirt received an update as well. With more of the left over trim from the sleeves, I applied it in a straight line down the center front. I also attached a bunch of lush bows made from the grey/pink skirt fabric for an 1836 skirt decoration style I\"d seen in a fashion plate.


I want to do something like this dress again, but in richer colors. This plum/dove grey/pinkish color scheme is lovely in daylight, but indoors or in the dusky lighting of Dickens Fair, it gets washed out easily. I at least had its pretty luster to save it. If I do a pale blue, I\"ll go for something that looks like a bright sky blue in outdoor light.

This bodice was also worn over a different corset this time, and while it was more comfortable than its predecessor, there is some wrinkling I\"ll need to fix on the bodice with a re-fitting and more boning.

As for the hat, stay tuned. That and the ballgown will get their own blog entries.



 Photo by Mary Anne Butler





 Photo by Laurie Tavan

Monday, August 25, 2014

The Final Update Before Dragon Con...

Dear readers, this is it for entries until after Dragon Con.
It's just a few days away and I still have a lot of finishing touches to complete on both the Lagertha battledress and Elsa's gown. However, I do have a couple of images to share as a teaser, and plenty of photos of the final products to share after the madness of con is over.

Here's a sneak-peek of the completed chainmaille tunic body. This was before I added the maille shoulder pieces, and had tried it on for fit...and it fit! (whew!)
I left the left shoulder section of maille detached but laced to a small strip of leather. From the closeup photos I had, I noticed this was used. A genius move on the part of the Vikings costume dept., so that way the entire left side of the tunic can open up for ease of dressing & undressing. When put on, that small strip of leather with the shoulder chainmaille piece simply gets tied back onto the rear shoulder section...if that makes any sense. If I have time later today, I can post a closeup of the original showing this detail.

 This was also before I had dyed my leather side laces a darker brown.


There are little to zero clues as to how Lagertha's blue leather dress closes in front. From some of the hi-res pictures, I was able to discern that it closed in front, but how was a mystery. So, once again using my own imagination, I decided to re-purpose a few of the extra rings leftover from the chainmaille as lacing loops.
Even further with my own stylistic leanings, the little holes you see punched in the leather will get some of the brass studs later. or maybe some fancier ones if I can track any down.
I still need to treat the leather to darken and weather is a little, too


I've been taking my own path with the look of the shirt. Keeping a similar color pallet to Lagertha's, but since it's so hard to make out details, or get a clear view of her undershirt collar, I am using my imagination. For mine, I'm utilizing a flax/hemp cord in a slate grey with some of the deep brown leather flat lacing also used on the leather dress. I've also done some extra decorative stitches in a flax thread along the neck seam.
It's definitely rustic looking, but then I'm portraying a Viking queen, not a Disney princess....at least not the entire time ;-)

The beginnings of the armored arm braces...

**Edited to add: Unfortunately the shield is not a go. We were trying to construct it so that it could separate in half for travel, but we just need more time to perfect it and make it hold together more solidly.**
A shield in the making, thanks to my friend Anders. Nearly complete; it just needs its handles at the back and paint. I have a sword he carved from wood and painted to look like the real thing, complete with leather scabbard.

So, stay tuned. There will be a ton of photos to share very soon. Perhaps even during Dragon Con!
XOXO





Sunday, July 20, 2014

Frozen: Constructing Elsa's Gown

So I finally have the base gown put together for my "deluxe" Elsa cosplay for Dragon Con!
Copying a strapless dress pattern from the 1980s for the basic shape onto muslin, I extended the lines for length and added a flared hemline. I also added a small train that comes to a subtle point. I flat-lined each piece in a rich turquoise satin, which will also peek through at the leg slit on the front of the skirt.


The fabric I found on Etsy is absolutely perfect, but the icy linear pattern done in silver threads goes the width of the fabric, not the length. It wasn't as wide as I am long, so I had to futz with the pattern a bit, making the bust-line area out of separate pieces.


This added the length I needed and the seams won't show once all the sequins and bodice decor goes on over it.


This dress form is my Uniquely You form, and after at least 3 fittings and re-fittings/stitching/shoving/zipping; she's still a bit full in some areas (mostly the chest and hips) compared to my own size and shape. I may need to shave some of her foam down, as many others with similar issues have done to their own Uniquely You forms. I'm 5' 10" with a 36" bust, 27" waist & 38" hips. This form is at a 37-28-40, even after fitting the outer fabric shell to my own body. The base foam figure is already their size "Small", and their X-Small base form is too short in the torso for me. For now, it's something I can pin stuff to until I can make those adjustments.


Once I get all the grommets set and boning inserted in the corseted undergarment, I can do a little more adjusting to the seams to get a final fit. Then I'll finish the hem, face the top edge, add some very light boning to the bodice seams to keep things smooth, and put a light blue zipper up the back. Then I'll start applying the sequin and crystal decoration.
I wanted my dress to be a bit fuller at the hem than what is portrayed in the animated film. The richness of this fabric is amazing and I just wanted more of its gorgeous, icy, folds swishing around me as I walk, and cascading behind with the sheer glimmering cape.