Friday, August 26, 2011

Future dress project that I MUST DO...

Ok, something just occurred to me.
Week before last, I had the pleasure of finally seeing my favorite film, Amadeus on the big screen.
I was too much of a wee thing to have seen it, or even remember it, in theaters when it came out.
ANYway, I digress;

"It's Turkish. My hairdresser says that everything this year is going to be Turkish".


Yes indeed, I want to make this dress and hat......or at least my version of it.
Admittedly while the costumes in Amadeus are great but highly questionable in historical accuracy (the women's in particular, there are zippers up the backs of the dresses for crying out loud!), this one isn't so bad.
BUT, there are issues with it. I can see her panniers poking through, the bodice is cut wrong, are there stays under there?
And if she were that fashion and trend conscious she wouldn't be wearing the old style panniers with it, she'd likely have a bum roll and the skirts might even be hitched up into a "Polonaise" if she were in the city.
I could go on and on, but it's a really fun costume and that is what carries though in the scene. The dress *is* Katerina.
One thing I do love, is that they used the Robe a la Turk concept for the dress. Note the little cap sleeves over long fitted sleeves.

So what would I do with my version?
I would keep the Robe a la Turk concept, but make it more accurate.
The front would be a zone front, as most original engravings and illustrations of this style suggest. The film version has a faux "V" front and I really don't like the way it's done. It looks like part of a high school play stage costume. As though it's just pulled tight around her torso and has built in boning rather than a separate pair of stays. Considering the rest of the costumes in the film with zippers, that is likely the case.

I do love the striped fabrics used, and the way they use them here is pretty spot on. During the late 1770s and early 80s, the more you could pile on your dress and head, the better. I've seen original fashion illustrations that support the same use of drapes and sashes on her skirt. As well, the gold bullion tassels and fringe.
And I really want a walking staff. Perhaps an easy project after a trip to Home Depot?
Hers is a little short, but perhaps that was personal preferance back then?

As for her hat and her hair style; pretty darn near perfect.
I may do a slightly different style in both hat and hair to suit my own tastes, but I'll keep the general concept and materials.

While I must be realistic, this likely won't come to fruition anytime soon. I have my gent's wardrobe to sew first, then mine, then the fun crazy stuff such as the above project.
...meanwhile I'll be hunting for the perfect wide red and white stripe silk.
If that ends up a bust, I could just buy some light ivory silk duchess satin, dye some of it red, and sew strips of each color together, making my own striped fabric. This is doable, since it's trimming and not a whole dress that needs to be striped.

Images care of Costume Dramas Obsession.

1 comment:

  1. "It's Turkish. My hairdresser says that everything this year is going to be Turkish". <- That's such a legendary line for me.. I've also ALWAYS adored this dress and I wanted to make something similar.. Here's one of the options I had in mind and drew it a looong while ago.


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