Step By Step: A New 18th Century Dress Pattern

Ok, I will go on record to say that I'm more than a bit excited for the new 1760-1770s English Gown pattern from Larkin & Smith. I've been wanting to try their mitts pattern for a while now, and when the gown pattern was recently released, I made up my mind to order both.

Not from the usual time frame that I currently obsess over, but this is the style that made me fall in love with the 18th century, way back when.
I do love the cut and versatility of these particular gowns. The clean lines and fitted back lends itself well to all figures and types of trimming. Another good thing about the English gown; if you have an event or reenactment to attend that is set somewhere during the latter half of the 1700s, you can rest assure you will be dressed accordingly should this ever be the only frock you have. It was worn well into the 1790s by some in the middle/merchant classes, and in the Americas.

"There are 34 pages of step by step instructions, with 20 pages of color photographs, spiral bound.  As you can imagine this bumped up our printing costs quite a bit.  So our pattern has to be more expensive than other patterns.."

$28.00
That is a small price that I'm HAPPY to pay, considering that too many historical patterns out there have less than ideal instructions. There are even some with incorrect instructions that never get edited, and some are practically nonexistent! The primary focus is on hand sewing, but I'm sure machine sewing is still an option.
I'm really looking forward to trying this pattern out, and making some lovely things inspired by the below images.
Extant gowns from the KCI Archives:

Edwardian Ball 2014: Photos Part II

It's hard to see in this photo, but the 'dots' on the bra are actually deep red Swarovski crystals. They embellished the corset as well... 

Jain, me and Euphrates posing for photos between sets, in Dark Garden couture corsets. Photo by T.L.Schmidbauer

Backstage with Caitlin, at the end of a fabulous night!

A Grand Ball And Red Rooms

This past week has been a whirlwind of preparation for this year's Edwardian Ball in San Francisco.
I had the pleasure of modeling once again for one of my all-time favorite couturiers; Dark Garden Unique Corsetry. Under the direction of Dark Garden's Caitlin Amaton and Euphrates Dahout, we performed a unique fashion show on both Friday and Saturday night, inspired by a classic Edward Gorey tale; The Curious Sofa. 
I also had the honor of meeting, and doing an impromptu photo shoot, with the Amazingly talented photographer, Joel Aron. When it comes to the use of light, this man is a modern-day George Hurrell. Hopefully I will have a few shots from that shoot, plus a few more to post here soon.

Meanwhile, here are a couple from Friday night:

 Toward the end of Friday evening, resting my feet in a most regal 'chair'.

This is my own Dark Garden custom couture corset, made just for me. I love it so much.

Trotting Along The Path Of Inspiration

http://rococoatelier.blogspot.com/2014/01/naval-riding-habit-inspiration.html

As the sewing area settles back into a somewhat usable space, I have been revisiting the list of projects that I'd like to accompish. For once, I'd like to sew something this year that doesn't end up being a rushed job to complete for an event. That may come later in the year, since I'll be attending a convention that is heavy on the costuming  ;-)
Until then, my wish list is long, so I'm really going to need to pick the most-likely-to-finish items from it.

At the top of the list of course, is a new pair of 18th century stays. I'll need these for fitting if I'm going to be making any more 18th century ensembles.

The next item is to finish the red/cream flourish and stripe robe a l'anglaise. I really need the above stays to do this one properly too.

Third on the list may be another new burlesque costume, and a large prop. This might actually take precedence over anything else this year, besides the stays.

Then I stumbled across Sanna K's post over on Rococo Atelier, regarding naval inspired 18th century riding habits. Of course I had to add that to my list as well, and it also seems many other people have too. It looks like we may have a 'Riding Habit-along' on our hands.
I was also reminded that I have a huge amount of trim that is perfect for such a project. This includes boxes of gold or silver antique military trims, buttons and bullion. The trick is to decide on a color and what the cut will be like. Waistcoat, or none? I'm inclined to go without, but I love the look of a pretty ivory silk waistcoat peeking out from the metallic trim of the frock, and the frothy lace of the shirt.
I'd like to go for something around the middle of the 18th century, and the below images are some inspiration.
I'd love a robin's egg/Tiffany blue, or perhaps in a deep forest green, wool with silver trim. Gold would be nice on either one of those, too.

Even if none of this happens this year, it's still on my to-do list. I have a pattern that could work for the tan colored habit shown here, plus the skirt and a men's shirt that can be modified a little for underneath. The waistcoat, if I go that route, I can tailor over my stays from a men's pattern as well.

Flight Of The Valkyrie: Part II

Just because there are more great photos of this act in motion from a recent performance, I need to share.
Photo credit goes to Patric McCarthy, Jeff Spirer and RJ Johnson (of lightreclaimed.com)

Those Wonderful Things...

Things of beauty that make your breath catch in your throat for a second or two.

1890's Blue Velvet and Gold Embroidered Shoes and matching tights

Detail: Mantua, Stomacher and petticoat, Italy, 1700. LACMA Collections Online