Monday, December 30, 2013

Rococo Reading: A New 18th Century Hair Manual


During time off for the holidays (and recovery from the flu) I stumbled upon what could be a very useful find during my online wandering.
Hairstyles are one of the more difficult aspects of 18th century costuming, and getting your look perfected can often seem more stressful than sewing the actual wardrobe.
Kendra Van Cleave of Demodecouture.com, comes to our rescue.
She has created a book detailing 18th century hairstyles and techniques, and is slated to be released this spring. Price; $45 ($5 discount if you pre-order the book) according to the Facebook page.
Pre-orders begin Jan 1st, 2014!

http://18thcenturyhair.com/

Overall, this looks like something I will most definitely be purchasing as soon as pre-orders start. While I've had some experience with wigs and creating historic hairstyles with my own hair, the 18th century is something I have rarely delved into, and really wouldn't mind having a go-to guide for. I've done the more simple mid-1700s look; the chignon with a pinner cap or a well-propped-up plume. But I yearn for the somewhat taller and fuller styles between the 1770s and 1780s.

Be sure to visit and 'like' the Facebook page for updates and more info:
https://www.facebook.com/18thCenturyHairstyling

Here is a small sampling from the table of contents (draft), and some techniques that will be covered;

"...Working with human hair: 
  • Curling
  • Straightening
Working with synthetic hair & wigs:
  • Purchasing
  • Different kinds of wigs & hairpieces
  • Making hairpieces (ponytails, ringlets, buns, braids, etc.)
Wigs: 
  • Adding extra hair
  • Changing the hairline
  • Enlarging a wig
  • How to make it all look smooth
  • Masking an obvious wig line
  • Wig care, storage, & travel
Powdering
Section 3:  Finished Styles
  • Women:  22 styles spanning 1700-1799
  • Men:  3 styles spanning 1740-1799
Both with step by step instructions illustrated with color photos, and lots of ideas for variations."

A Few More Photos...

Slowly cleaning up the mess left after the Dickens Fair madness. My sewing area looks as though a bomb hit it, as it does every year at this time. The plan is to start on the 18th century projects again, before some other event rears its ugly head, and requires a new rushed costume.

Since I can't resist sharing more photos, here are some extras. Many thanks to my friend Anders for the photographic assistance.
This isn't so much because they are pics of me and my outfit, but more for the simple reason that the location is so lovely! I still can't get over the fact that this is just 15 minutes from my front door...








Wednesday, December 25, 2013

Holiday At The Villa; Empress Elisabeth In Velvet And Mink

My reproduction of Empress Elisabeth of Austria's velvet and mink ensemble is complete, and now I have some glorious photos to share. I had also just gotten over the flu, so it was nice to get outside for some fresh air and a walk.
My friend, Anders was generous enough to take the photos at a favorite location. Villa Montalvo is practically in my backyard.
It's stunningly beautiful and not only reminds me of some of the smaller summer palaces in Austria, but even a few villas located in the more southern areas of Europe. Places Sisi may have often escaped to on her many travels.
This creation is by no means perfect, and there are some things that I would have fixed if I'd had the time. Here are a few notes on the costume for the nit-pickers like myself:

- Yes, the skirt isn't as long, wide or voluminous as Sisi's was in the original photographs. This costume was intended to be, and was, worn for a role played at Dickens Fair. It needed to be a true walking style skirt, and hoops were required to be under a maximum circumference of 110 inches. No more. And no elliptical hoops were allowed either, so I was forced to make this skirt a more 1850s shape
- Indeed, I'm not wearing gloves. Neither was Sisi in the photos and even though I'm outside, I'm not sure Sisi would have cared much either ;-)
- The hat is a bit different than hers. I decided that since I did not have the time or the materials to create an exact replica of the one she wears in the photos, this other historically accurate version would do. It's also a style I think she would have appreciated, wit the cute little mink pom-poms in back.
- I'm glad we did the shoot when we did, since the deep chestnut color I put on my tresses is already fading quite rapidly. It's now officially a dark blonde, yet closer to what Sisi's color was like. While my own hair has gotten quite long, it's nowhere near as long as hers was. So, the braids you see are actually hairpieces I added to my own. These are a much lighter shade than the darker ones I wore for Dickens. I knew my color would fade quickly since it's a semi permanent. By chance, these ended up a surprisingly good color match.

I will be breaking this up into two entries, as there are a lot of images. There are just so many pretty areas to shoot in at this location, and the late-day light was beautiful.
Without further ado, and a happy Christmas to you: the photos.





 





Part II coming soon!




Thursday, December 19, 2013

A Brief Photo Post

I found a couple more photos of the other ensemble I made, taken by my friend RJ Johnson this past weekend at Dickens Fair.
When seeing these photos all I can say is wow, I REALLY need to put stays/boning on those side seams and front darts! The lack of time whilst also completing the Sisi velvet project played a part in that. Still, not too shabby for a somewhat rushed bodice.
I want to find a really nice silky ivory brush fringe to apply to the sleeves, just above the pleating on the cuffs, and around the shoulders going into a 'V' down the front of the bodice. Probably at the bottom edge of the bodice skirt as well.
Like I had mentioned earlier, after Fair is done I'll get some nice full length photos of both outfits.

I was so sleepy that Sunday, heh!
The lovely bonnet is on loan to me from my friend Laura. I need to make a similar one for next year, I have found myself adoring the drawn bonnets of the 1850s.

 The new Dark Garden corset I'm wearing underneath also made me considerably smaller (even though it didn't feel like it!) than the one I had been using previously, and to fit this bodice on. So, the bodice fits a tad looser now, hence some of the wrinkling. The pattern I based it off of also calls for a slight amount of padding between the bust and armscye, to get that hourglass curve into the nipped waistline. Another thing I didn't have time for, but this may also help to smooth things out when I do add it.

The temp. hair color is also fading out nicely, and is even lighter now since these photos were taken. It makes me glad that this is the final weekend of Fair. Any more and it will have faded out to the point that my add-on braids of fake hair no longer match! I'm looking forward to getting back to my own blonde color.

XOXO



Monday, December 16, 2013

The Velvet Hussar: Empress Elisabeth At The Great Dickens Fair

This is somewhat of a sneak peek of the gown as it made its maiden voyage this past weekend at The Great Dickens Fair for Royals Day. While I still wish to get a few posed photos of the gown showing the full length standing, there are some lovely shots below. These were taken by Laurie Tavan (who is also one of three lovely ladies this year that play Queen Victoria) and her Husband Jeremy.
Much love and thanks to my dear friend, Laura, who assisted me as Countess Carolyn de Lamberg, lady in waiting to Empress Elisabeth. She created an amazing Miesbacher tracht (tradtional Miesbacher ensemble) to wear for the occasion.

At some point I would like to make another fuller, longer velvet skirt for this ensemble, since this one had to be made to maneuver through a crowded Dickens Fair. Larger hoops are not allowed for good reason, but I have a good sized elliptical hoop hanging in my closet that would do well.
I even have the desire to make her velvet dress with the lace jabot someday. It may have actually been what 'Sisi' was wearing underneath the coat for those photographs, which were taken in the same studio.
It might be worth it to just make that entire gown anyway, if I ever choose to work with that much velvet again.


 An audience with HRH Queen Victoria at the Adventurer's club

Mackenzie as Empress Eugiene, Laura Erlich as Countess Carolyn de Lamberg (my lady in waiting) and yours truly; Sisi.

 Leaving The Adventurer's Club

 Lovely ladies (left to right): Laura, me, Amy Lambert as Queen Victoria, Mackenzie, Laurie Tavan

We ended the day with a formal toast at the Adventurer's Club.

Friday, December 13, 2013

A few Progress Photos...Almost There.

 Placing the templates for the passementerie detail on the sleeves.

Endless pins to attach a seemingly endless amount of mohair braid on the skirt of the coat.
Also; I am going to need to lint brush the hell out of this thing when I'm done.

Thursday, December 12, 2013

The Velvet Hussar: Nearly Complete!

I'm proud to say that as of tonight (or tomorrow evening), my reproduction of Empress Elisabeth's velvet and fur winter ensemble will be done!
Saturday will be its debut as I will be presented to HRH Queen Victoria, at Dickens Fair for Royals Day.
Of course I have no real photos of anything yet since I've been so busy finishing it up, but here is a photo of the matching hat I finished this afternoon during my lunch hour (sorry for the poor image quality):


In the original photograph of 'Sisi' wearing this outfit, her hat was a similar shape and style, with what looks like a little mink fur decoration at one side (away from the camera). Hers had more of an upturned close brim. Frustratingly, I didn't have the time or ability to replicate her hat this year, but was able to make one in the same vein. Instead of at the side, I put a looped velvet bow tipped with little mink pom poms at the center back. The rest of the hat is black sinmay covered with the same black velveteen as the gown in a softly gathered toque style with a little Hungarian flair.

Below is one of the 8 appliques I hand beaded to go on the front of the coat. These are a base for the covered toggles that the cord loops across the front attach to.


From the original set of photographs. You can see the little sprout of fur to the right on her hat:

'Sisi' with Shadow.
The lace collar on the blouse I wore last year will work perfectly for underneath, and I've added some lace frill to the cuffs as well.

In this image, it's easier to make out the daisy-shaped & beaded motifs under the toggles on her bodice.

 My skirt will not be trained long in back. You have no idea how much I wish it could be. But I needed to make it shorter because well, it's the Cow Palace/Dickens Fair. While the ground isn't atrociously dirty with mud etc. (but still pretty heinous) the risk of having my hem accidentally stepped on by patrons and players alike is too risky.

Oh and by the way; I went so far as to *DYE MY HAIR* for this.
Maybe not just for this Sisi project alone, but for fun too. I had to bite the bullet and did it on Tuesday evening before I allowed myself to chicken out. My own blonde locks will be in hiding, gradually making their way back out over the next few months, as I slowly and gently get the darker semi-permanent shade of chestnut out.
Check it!:


Monday, December 9, 2013

A Fabulous Flea Market Find: An Edwardian Ladies Suit

I meant to post about this earlier, but life gets in the way. Photos are on the way!

On a recent excursion to Santa Cruz, Anders and I had just parked the car and were headed to brunch when we were stopped dead in our tracks. The Santa Cruz Sunday flea market was in full swing, and we couldn't resist taking a look. We agreed that we could both hold off a little bit longer on food and coffee to explore the tables and racks of vintage wares.
Literally the first clothing rack I reached, I saw her.
I say 'her' because that little bit of forest green wool beckoned to me like a little woodland nymph. One elegant sleeve peeked out from a few 1970s atrocities, as if the polyester orange and brown prints were slowly devouring a damsel in distress for a meal. I quickly reached in and found the hanger this sleeve was attached to, and lifted the garment from the Sarlacc pit of floral disco doom.
I gazed at it for a moment, thinking I had a late 1930s coat at first (or 1970s-does-30s) due to the small puffed sleeves that bordered on leg-o-mutton style. Then I saw the skirt underneath the long jacket and knew I had something a good chunk of years older. Here's what else I saw:
Pleats in the skirt, but radiating out from the center front.
Celluloid buttons faded from a deep green to a mustard beige.
Forest green satin covered collar, cuffs, breast pocket welt and pocket flaps.
Ecru silk satin lining.
A woven label much older than the 1930s.
 The cut of the torso area was one that barely whispered of a fad for extreme pigeon front silhouettes, that had barely just faded away by the time this suit was created. Most likely this was made around 1908-10.
I promise, photos are on the way. I think I need to dig for the hat I have that may go well with it.

When I tried it on, it was one of those rare spooky moments that feels like you're putting on a garment you've owned and worn for years, like a favorite coat. Now, I'm of the taller variety with long limbs, so vintage items are often too short for me, if they fit me at all otherwise. This forest green suit fit as though it were made for me in every way, even without all the proper historical underthings.
It's one thing to find something from the 1930s or 40s, but it's rare I can go back this far and find an article of clothing that fits as truly as this does.
The skirt is shorter, hitting just above the ankles.
Normally I would say that perhaps the original owner was shorter than me, but seeing how the jacket fit lengthwise and in the arms, she had to be around my height.
As mentioned earlier, the style and cut of both the jacket and skirt look as though the ensemble was made around 1908. However; the skirt may have been shortened later on, a little after the start of The Great War. Perhaps around 1916. Looking on the inside of the skirt, I can see traces of an alteration to the length.
When the US finally did enter WWI, it was time to make a little go a long way for the war effort, and many women had to make do with a good suit as long as possible. Often altering them to at least reflect the current hemlines that just kept going higher. "Career girls", in the growing force of women entering the workplace during and after the war, had maybe one or (if they were lucky) two good suits.

Here is a perfect example of women's suits from 1907-8, and the era in which the one I found came from. The jacket on the far left and the skirt in the center most closely resemble the cut and style of my green wool suit. There are still examples of women's sportswear from this decade that have even slightly shorter hemlines than these:


Then later on the skirt length was altered to fit in with the shift in style, similar to these below. By 1916, hemlines were reaching almost calf-revealing heights:



 Sheesh! Custom tailored or not, those are some stunningly expensive suits for the time.
Not all ready made garments were this pricey. These must have been aimed at the upper class.
Especially if you consider that the one in the middle for $19 would have been $400 by today's worth. The $32 suit equals out to be about $650.
The yearly US median household income in 1915 = about $687
Damn I want a pair of those boots.

Friday, December 6, 2013

One little photo...

The dress was a success, at least in its current state. Hopefully there will be more photos of it, after this Sunday at Dickens Fair. Or after the madness of the holidays is over, I can get a few shots of it outside in better light.
Here's one so far, taken of Anders, myself and our friend Todd at The Bohemian absinthe bar, and its 'not-so-great-for-photos' lighting.
I still want to add some pleated trim in the same ivory silk to the bodice, going from the upper back over the shoulder seams and down the front to a 'V'. The little poof at the shoulder seams bugs me and that should balance it out a little. I went with a double tiered skirt instead of the triple version, since it worked out better with the type of stripe the fabric has.

FYI; the odd shape of my skirt is due to the placement of my mantle (cape) resting off one shoulder.