Saturday, September 28, 2013

Dicken's Fair; Narrowing It Down

Already, I've been making moves toward my new ensemble(s) for this year's Dicken's Fair.
I decided to have a proper hoop made for me, as this will save me a good chunk of time, and it's already on it's way.
Many thanks to my friend Cait who suggested Originals By Kay.

I will still need to make a fully flounced petticoat to go over it, and (cue dramatic music) a new corset.
It will be very basic, plain cotton, but I'm still not sure I will have the time to make that as well. Especially if I want it to be totally comfortable for all-day wear.
There may just be another trip to Dark Garden in my near future.

I also plan on finishing the Velvet Hussar/Sisi project that was started last year.

Below are just a couple of fashion plates I have for inspiration. I adore the dress on the left in this one, but I'm thinking of rich blue hues. Perhaps with a contrasting pale pink or burgundy silk bonnet.


I also want a mantel or some kind of decent outerwear this year too. I became really tired of messing with a shawl, and want to keep my hands more free. Either one of these would be wonderful. I'm really drawn to the one on the right with the lace:



Thursday, September 26, 2013

Just Something Pretty...

It's interesting to compare the way we apply ruched trims to reproduction historical garments today, as opposed to how it was once done. Perhaps this is due to the fact many no longer have the same finishing tools readily available, like pinking irons, and edging trims (or the skills to produce them). So we sometimes rely on just putting a deeper gather on our ruching, or more stuff on a gown to fill in the space.
Below as an example, we see that there isn't an excess of stuff gathered to the point of snapping the thread that binds it. Instead it's laid down delicately by hand, with just enough body to give it depth and allow a serpentine curve while laying flat.
Of course for this trim I'm sure a lower profile of ruffle was desired, and it has been flattened a bit over the ages. But even on gowns where more fulness of trimming was needed, there is still a quality of 'less as more'.

The thing I also notice about clothing during the latter half 18th century, is that exquisite framing of space. Weather it's on a frock coat or a Robe a l'Anglaise. The trim and decoration compliment the simplicity and effortless elegance if the textiles used, rather than to cover it up.

Early 1770s silk brocaded jacquard gown. Self made ruching with fly braid at edge.

Tuesday, September 24, 2013

A Resounding "Awwww!"

One of the cutest photos taken during the filming of Amadeus.


Buttons And Braid

A couple of months back, I had mentioned that my friend Anders had acquired boxes upon boxes of wondrous things. Mainly buttons.
There were also loads of genuine silver and gold braid, of varying width and design, many in their original wrappings from 19th to early 20th century Germany and England.
He has started an Etsy shop, Greyfell Productions, with just a few of these items so far. But you can get an idea of the types of buttons and military braid we have available from this huge lot.
A lot of these items would be fantastic trimmings for a ladies military inspired Georgian or Victorian riding habit.


Sunday, September 22, 2013

What I've Been Up To...

Again I've been pulled away from you, dear readers, on various adventures with little time in between to post here.
Well I aim to change that today. This summer has proven to be full of Deco era events, with a bit of Victorian thrown in for good measure. Settle in folks, this is a long one.

Back in early August, I attended the Spirit Of '45 event in San Jose.
It was a great time to celebrate all the veterans of WWII, listen to some great music, get dressed up, be in a parade, shop for fabulous vintage hats, hang out in some beautiful vintage cars, and hang with good friends.

Laura and I in the ice ream parlor.


After that, the next adventure was even more glamorous.
My two best friends, Laura and Cait (of Curse Words And Crinolines) twisted my arm...well, it didn't take much twisting...to join them for a weekend aboard the Queen Mary.

It was the Annual Art Deco Festival, and everyone was dressed to the nines.
Friday afternoon had a bit of a rocky start to the weekend due to a major screw up of the hotel management, and a visiting camera crew filming a reality TV series.
After checking into our rooms, then unknowingly being checked out in the system so they could accommodate the film crew, we were finally checked *back in* and settled by early evening. We had a bite to eat then dressed for the cocktail party on the observation deck and lounge. It was the first time I wore this vintage 1930s evening dress; a cobalt blue number with silver beading on the low draped back. I pared it with a beaded silver lariat for a belt, as the original is of course missing.


 Later that evening, Laura and I ghosted around the ship in our nightgowns, on our way to the Pajama Party.
Being an old ship, there are lots of random switches and buttons, sometimes randomly located on walls and in corridors. We found one smack dab in the center of a beautiful likely-now-extinct wood veneer wall in the observation bar. Perhaps it was to call a waiter?
Would the wall flip around and expose some secret Nazi lair, a la Indiana Jones?
I was tempted to press the inviting little ivory button in its unlabeled brass plate to see if anything happened. I didn't do it....but there's always next year....

Saturday we strolled about, met up with more friends old and new, and checked out the vendor areas. We spied some black satin knickers embroidered with an amusingly steadfast phrase.


Before getting ready for the Grand Ball, Cait, Michael and I enjoyed the late afternoon lounging on the upper deck.


Once we were in all our finery, we gathered in one of the smaller event areas for cocktails before they opened the doors to the grand ballroom.



The Three Musketeers!


Dinner was amazing, and consisted of multiple courses. The live music, featuring Dean Mora of Mora's Modern Rythmists was stellar.
The three of us girls wore midnight blue; Cait and Laura in blue velvet and yours truly in shimmering blue sequined net.

 Of course, between dinner, desert and dances, hilarious hijinks ensued in the hallways, as per tradition...


 Like a scene out of 'The Women'.

 Left to right:
 Autumn Adamme, Dan'a, Cait, Patricia 
Lippert, Annamarie Von Firley, Me, Laura and Lily Mansfield center floor.

To wind down the evening, we retired to the observation lounge for a special treat.
The after-party was a one-night-only reproduction of how the lounge looked on the night of the Queen Mary's maiden voyage in 1936; The Starlight Lounge.
They brought out and set up all the original tables, chairs, china, silverware, linens, menus and star-scattered drapes on the windows.
The story goes is that they drew those heavy velvet drapes against the coming daylight, and literally danced past dawn while the band played until 7am.
In the years that followed, the restaurant lounge became a highly sought after place to dine and drink while traveling aboard the ship, and reservations were often fully booked 2 years out.
Once again, the band played until the wee hours, and I did a few turns on the dance floor until my poor feet begged for mercy.
Time warp.

 Next on the agenda, was the Sunday tea dance, and we all donned our Sunday best, for tasty treats and savory tea. I pulled out my vintage mid 1930s organdy striped dress and a little black straw hat, while Laura donned a crisp white summer dress and borrowed my burgundy hat. It paired well with the new garnet jewelry she bought during the weekend.



Fashion plate poses: Laura with her fabulous new shoes!

Goofing off with Cait...

 As an end to the weekend, Sunday night found us all gathered together at Sir Winston's; an amazing restaurant also aboard the QM.

 Many thanks to Annamarie and her husband David (seated at the far right) for a wonderful dinner and the perfect end to a lovely weekend with friends.


 Again with the buttons and little flicky switches! 

This time, Laura got brave and actually FLICKED ONE!
It did nothing, which was way more exciting, since we imagine it probably did something somewhere! We ran giggling, like two prank-crazed schoolgirls, down the hall a few doors to our room.

It was hard to leave the next day. It was as though the clock was striking midnight and my glass slippers were changing back to little black flats.

Fast forward to the next weekend:...