Thursday, January 24, 2013

Absence..

Due to my laptop's recent and unexpected death, I must apologize for not posting or commenting here as often as I'd like or should.
The motherboard fried thanks to a faulty USB port, but lucky for me, my data is safe on the hard drive.
I'll admit I had a little internalized freak out over the possibility of losing all my coveted and hoarded historic costume images, let alone all the music, photos, etc. Or my BOOKMARKS, gah!! I don't even want to think about that.

Until I can afford an external hard drive to dump it all onto, it sits on a server at Anders' workplace, safe and sound...I hope :-\
There is no way I can afford a new computer right now, and besides my work computer, I'm using a tiny little HP Mini at home to at least have some access to email etc. (borrowed from Anders).
The first time I used it, I cracked up a little as I opened it up on my lap and tried to type something. It's so adorable, like it was accidentally hit with a shrink ray.

I will have more sewing updates after this week. I am attending a WWII 'social' this weekend, so that leaves no time to start up with the sewing again until the following week. Plus, I just recently finished cleaning up and organizing the sewing area. I can find things again!

So, enough with my tech problems and such. I leave you all with something pretty XOXO....



Friday, January 18, 2013

Color Suggestions: Thanks For The Ideas!

Both on and off this blog, many of you suggested some great color combinations for my upcoming early bustle V&A dress project.
My final pick may actually be two.
I'd love to do a super pale lavender with a dark purple trim.




If I can't find a lavender silk taffeta that I like, I'm going to go with my original consideration of the cream/light beige with black trim, which I think will look quite sharp.




I wanted to stay away from colors that were too dark all over, and while I love soft colors I want to keep a contrast between them.

I would do pink with black if I didn't already have a late bustle gown in those colors, and after using that color
combination many times over the years for various projects, I'm a little burnt out on it.

All tan/brown ensembles, or combos thereof, can wash me out.
I've tried it, but since I'm quite pale, I need to stay away from all tan/brown unless I'm using it as a small
amount of trim.

Pink with dark pink; I want to stay away from the cotton candy colors so I don't look like a cupcake (I know.
This is amusing, coming from a woman who just wore a very pink silk bustle gown to a ball).

I considered pale, cool, celadon green with a dark hunter green trim.
The green color combo is actually still another contender, and I have a good source for some pale green silk for the gown. BUT, would this look too 'Mina Harker'? ...not that it would be a bad thing.




I'm trying to stay away from the iridescent silks we see a lot of these days, and silk taffeta inherently has a nice sheen already.
It seems to be getting harder to find truly solid, non shot or iridescent silk taffeta these days, and while I really like them, I want the texture of this dress to be more true to the original it is based off of.
I may just splurge on buying a silk faille taffeta for the trim no matter what colors I go with. It's more expensive, but I won't need too much yardage for just the details.

But enough obsessing over colors!
Either way, I have time to search out the fabrics I need as this is just a project for fun (finally) with no obligation attached to it. I am; however, obligated to at least do it, and finish it.


Thursday, January 17, 2013

Almost there...

The great Clean Up is nearly done!
I can see the entire floor of my sewing area.
The cutting table is clean, folded down and rolled out of the way (for now).
Usable scraps have been separated from the throwaway clippings.
Fabrics have been put in their proper shelves and drawers.

I still need to rearrange my trim and ribbon drawers. They are a spaghetti-like mess after so much digging through, when madly searching for last-minute trims and notions.

I think an Etsy de-stash is in order, too. I have more than a few fabrics and trims that, while pretty, I don't see myself using anytime in the near future. If I do end up needing something like them, they are kinds I can always buy more of.

I'd add photos to this post, but I'm at work and don't have those images here. I'll add some later tonight once it's all shiny and clean...so you can all imagine that it's what it looks like...all the time ;->

So instead, here's just something pretty:



Tuesday, January 15, 2013

Fabulous Finds

A quick trip from the Victorian into the future; the 1930s.
You know, when you're quick and wily, sometimes you really do find those 1930s evening gown patterns online...in excellent unused condition...for under a bazillion dollars. Case in point:


I randomly logged onto Etsy last night, and after 10 seconds of searching vintage patterns, saw the above.
$20, baby!!!

I barely looked, I just hit the Add To Cart/Buy It buttons after determining that it was a complete pattern.
I think all that Anders probably heard from his office down the hall, was an "AAAH!" or "HOLY SH*T, YOU ARE MINE!".
Factory folds, no missing pieces, envelope is in great condition with a few rumples on the corners. That's it!
Thank you again, Etsy ;-)
...and curse you. I told myself I was going to take a break from you.



Wednesday, January 9, 2013

Ideas Considered: Color Combo Suggestions Anyone?


The V&A 1874 gown, also the same one from Janet Arnold's 'Patterns Of Fashion II', is one I'd like to take a stab at this year.
This also falls into the Early Bustle category on my 2013 Project list.

Augustintytär's version over at 'Before The Automobile', is stunning in pale blue and navy.
So, as to not be a copycat, I'd like to use different shades than the ones on hers and on the original.
I think that I may have already made my decision on what solid colors I'd like to use for my own version, but I'd love to hear any ideas you all might have.
My current thoughts for a color combo that may just win; a rich creamy ivory to light taupe with black trim, both in silk taffeta.
I'm going for a light color for the major portion of the dress, and darker for the details.

The original at the V&A

Like many others out there I'm sure, this dress is one that has inspired me since I was a kid. Probably one of the only early bustle gowns I ever really loved.
The combination of higher waistlines with larger bustles, paired with endless trimmings, ruffles, pleats and lace (just as much on the upper half as on the lower in some cases) gave me the impression that the dresses were wearing the women. In many of the fashion plates between 1870 to 1874, I swear they resemble escaped wedding cakes as they glide along the promenade.
Don't get me wrong, I LOVE ruffles and pleats. But this one is sleek, elegant and non-frivolous, yet still so feminine within the details.
Seeing it brought to life by the expert skills of Augustintytär and the wondrous 'Green Acres' project by Lauren of American Duchess, gave me all the more reason to finally give in and try an early bustle ensemble.

I love the green gown! You can actually see the lady's figure.

Again, directly from my list of things to make, I'll need that new Victorian corset and the LM trained bustle for this project. The plus side is that after I make this corset, I can also use it for Dickens Fair next year and all the other mid Victorian or early bustle events that may occur.


1873 corset From Nora Waugh's, 'Corsets And Crinolines' book.

 The Laughing Moon trained bustle, or as I like to call it; a place to hide your Dalek.


Monday, January 7, 2013

The 2 Day Bodice for 12th Night...

So I finished the pink silk bodice to wear with the existing skirts I had of the same magenta faille taffeta.
By 'finished', I mean it's sewn together and wearable. It looks good now, but there are a few adjustments that I want to make before I wear it a second time.
The seams need to be boned, the puff sleeves might get a few tacks to control the puff into a more ruched look, and it's slightly roomy for me.
I still want to put some decorative buttons up the back over the closure, and put hooks and eyes on both the inside of the bodice and skirts to keep it from riding up. Overall, it turned out pretty good for such a last minute project.

Here are a few photos from the 12th Night Ball. I don't want to share too much until I get the wrinkles out, literally, and take some better photos of the whole gown. Regardless, a grand time was had and everyone looked smashing.

At the royals table, watching a reading by Mr. Charles Dickens

...and champagne....lots of champagne


With Anders Hudson


Thursday, January 3, 2013

Helpful info for tailoring details...

I'm just putting this here as a helpful tool for us all. It's a great post by Hallie over At The Sign Of The Golden Scissors; 18th century button stands for menswear...or menswear-inspired ladies garments.
This tailoring tip will be especially helpful to me when I start Anders' late 1770s frock coat...after I finish those damn breeches :

http://thegoldenscissors.blogspot.com/2013/01/whats-under.html

French, Ensemble in yellow. ca. 1765, silk, metal.
Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Wednesday, January 2, 2013

At The Starting Gate: 2013 Project Possibilities

There are sketchbooks loaded with ideas from over the years taking up a good chunk of space on my bookshelf. They are filled with scribbled down dreams and the shadows of erased pencil strokes beneath a final drawing. Pages and pages of projects involving the creation of garments and other items and props for the burlesque stage. It's like the old saying goes; so much (fill in the blank), so little time.

Well, if I'm going to make any New Years resolutions, here is a list for the sewing half of things.
I was inspired by my friend Cait of Curse Words And Crinolines and her latest post on sewing plans for the new year.
Keep in mind these are *new* projects, not ones I'm currently working on. Some will be out of the pages of those sketchbooks.
Perhaps I will get all or just a choice few completed by the end of 2013, let alone started, so here goes:

A pair of 18th century stays, perhaps two; middle and late century:



A couple of 18th century gowns. A saque, a robe a l'anglaise, and hopefully my 'historically accurate' version of the "It's Turkish!" dress from the film Amadeus:



I have never been a big fan of the early bustle silhouette, but some recent stunning creations by a few colleagues have inspired me to look again at the years between 1873-75 with fresh eyes. It can be done elegantly and you don't need to look like a walking, overly decorated, wedding cake :-)

 The lavender gown on the right is an original at the V&A;
"Day dress, 1873-75. Museum no. T.112 to B-1938. Given by Miss M. Eyre-Poppleton".

A new hoop, and the Laughing Moon Lobster Tail bustle I've been curious about for years. I'll need it for the early bustle gowns pictured above:



A hoop era ballgown, 1850s or 1860s:
And for Dickens this year, the ensemble to the right in the same photo.

A natural form gown of some kind:



An 1830s gown (Cait and I have plans. Fluffy cupcake-like plans, muwaahaha):



Again for Dickens; a mid Victorian military-inspired  ensemble...or two. One has been on the back burner for a while:


A 1930s evening gown design I found ages ago that I've been yearning to recreate, perhaps in time for the Max Raabe show in April.
I'll leave that one a secret for the time being...

Last but not least; a new Victorian corset:


Something basic and sturdily made, yet not bulky, of  plain cotton designed for longer periods of wear (*cough*Dickens Fair*cough*). I'm even considering having this one made for me instead of making it up myself. An investment I shall make sooner rather than later, given the projects I wish to complete.

Stay tuned XOXO!



Tuesday, January 1, 2013

Once More,With Feeling...

Remember at the end of my last post, where I wondered what the hell I was going to wear to the upcoming Twelfth Night Ball?
Well, all I need is a new bodice! I think I can make it work in time, and I'm hauling on it, so I'm not too worried.

The Twelfth Night Ball is essentially the big wrap party for the cast of Dickens Fair. Yes, Dickens still has its claws in us weeks after it ends. What's nice about this ball, is that we can wear whatever era we want ;-)
So, since I have zero 1850s or 1860s formal wear, I'm going 1880s bustle since there is a lot of that going on in my wardrobe already. However, the only formal evening or ballgown style bodice I have is the one to my madame X gown. I've already worn that to so many of the dances that I need something new...and I'd like to wear something besides black.

I know, I know. The Sisi/Velvet Hussar project needs to be finished, and I'll finish that before I start any more new projects...but I need this ballgown bodice by this Saturday evening.
I already have the lower half of the ensemble from this 1880s promenade gown I made a few years ago. I might remove the lace apron for the ball though:


I was lucky enough to have plenty of the rich magenta silk faille taffeta left over to make a ballgown bodice from (it looks more purple in the above photo than is really is).
I'm using the Truly Victorian 1860s Ballgown Bodice, and making the point in front a little more long and sharp instead of the soft V the pattern gives me. Keeping the whole design fairly simple, I'm likely not adding any lace and utilizing the same green/rose shot moire ribbon I have on the skirt somewhere on the bodice.
I've also added a little peplum in back, to give it that much more of a bustle era boost.
Sleeves; It's one of those almost-off-the-shoulder styles, so I may leave that as is, and use the short puff sleeves that already come with the pattern...though I may widen them a bit for more puff, then tack them in a few spots to sculpt the puffiness. Working with this silk is a dream, and sculpting is the word that keeps coming to mind.
Here is the bodice after just starting it this afternoon. I had to crank the color of the image a bit to show the true color of this incredible silk. Each piece is flat-lined with a plain white cotton twill, darts are done, peplum is pepped...like I said, I'm hauling:

Tonight or tomorrow evening, I'll do the final fitting and decide if I want the closure in back or hidden in front under some sneaky trim/sash thingy.
Oh and, Happy New Year! XOXOX