Tuesday, December 25, 2012

Gruß vom Krampus!

...and a happy new year!


Dickens Fair is over, the house is a mess of fabric scraps and costume bits from the sewing and being too exhausted or ill to do any real cleaning in between.
During the fair's run, I wasn't able to complete my velvet Sisi ensemble, but did create the velvet skirt for it, plus a couple of alternative items to wear; a black taffeta over-skirt, a blouse and another full length skirt.
Hopefully there will be photos surfacing of me actually wearing these items, or when the weather clears a bit, maybe I will have Anders help me take some new photos.
Already, plans for next year's outfits are on the drawing board, and my friends Laura and Caitlyn of Curse Words And Crinolines have plans for matching ensembles of awesomeness ;-)

Like last year, I felt out-of-sorts with my clothing. I didn't have enough time in my sewing area to really create some new pieces since Anders needed to use it to make himself and a few of his gentleman companions new waistcoats and pants. I wasn't able to start the majority of my sewing until the last weekend of pre-Dickens workshops. This next year will be different, and I'd like to make more ensembles that require less fussing with them throughout the day. With the rush to complete things, I ended up having to use pins instead of actual closures, and no real time to make sure everything was comfortable to wear all day.
I'll need a new hoop petticoat, too, that can hold the weight of heavier fabrics and give a more historical shape and size. Mine, while very nice, is larger and built for lighter garments and modern bridal wear. It has only 4 hoops in a fabric casing, so it can't hold anything heavier than lightweight fabrics like taffeta and cotton.
I've sourced and purchased some of the materials to make at least one of next year's dresses, but as promised, this blog shall once again go forth into the 18th century!!
The velveteen breeches and frock coat for Anders will be completed, and my gowns, hats and accessories will follow!
I am so excited to be starting on a different era after so much hoop era immersion over the holidays.
 XOXO

P.S. Now, what do I wear for the Twelfth Night ball in just a few weeks?!



Thursday, December 13, 2012

The Velvet Hussar: The Skirt

Last night after work, I dove into an attempt to finish my velvet skirt.
I did pretty well, actually. The pleats are secured to the waistband, the hem is even after a little trimming here and there, and the hem tape is stitched to the raw edge of the hem as well....and that's as far as I got.

This skirt is heavy, and I definitely need to put my hoop on an actual waistband. I may even need to put more steel in my hoop by way of a few more hoops.
Here she is so far (once again on my too-big-for-me dress form) without a hem:



Sunday, December 9, 2012

More Insanity By Choice


This is only my 2nd or 3rd time doing cartridge pleats for a skirt, and this is probably the most fabric I've ever had to pleat to a waistband; 8+ yards of black cotton.
At least I found, in my wondrous stash, a heavy grosgrain and silk satin covered fabric belt. It's perfect for this heavy velvet skirt that needs a heavier foundation to hang from. While only the lower half of the skirt is made of the velvet (it would be much too thick to pleat and fit the bulk into the waistband), it already weighs a good amount. I am seriously considering putting a waistband on my hoop petticoat. The drawstring seems like it would be much too weak to hold the weight of the skirt, and coat skirts of velvet and fur, for any extended amount of time


I also took a break from this and made a fitted blouse today from a lightweight cotton sateen. This is not only something to wear under the Sisi velvet ensemble, but as part of an alternative outfit to wear this year at Dickens Fair. 


More photos of this soon. The dress form in the photo is actually about a size or two bigger than I am, but I just needed one that wasn't broken (like the one I was using that *is my size) to take photos on.
I used the Truly Victorian 1860s Darted Bodice - TV446, and extended the length from the waistline. I literally just added extra at will, which is why the hem is all crazy in back. I will even this out, but the little tail that happened in back is actually kind of cute
There are a few details I want to add during the week; a vintage lace collar and perhaps pleated or ruffled cuffs of the same fabric.
I'm also hoping that I can get a separate overskirt and swiss waist made by next weekend to wear with the above skirt and blouse at Dickens next weekend. Cross your fingers folks.
The Sisi ensemble is nearly done, but the finishing details on the coat are killing me.

Friday, December 7, 2012

The Velvet Hussar - Details

The fur hem is nearly complete.
I swear, when this part alone is done I'm going to dance around the house in victory!

In order to stitch the top edge of the fur to the coat, and get a nice roll-under of the pelt edge, I needed to machine some black bias tape to it. After folding it over, I had not only a nice clean edge to work with, but something much easier for thread and needle to sew securely to.


I am definitely taking the lint brush to the entire thing when all is done. So much fuzz...