New Neck Ruff: The Austrian Woman...

I'm still working on getting that Madame du Pompadour neck ruff just right. Turns out I didn't have enough ribbon for the project, so instead I came up with a new design: The Austrian Woman



http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=32975164

Before she even set foot on French soil, a 15 year old Marie Antoinette earned the name, l'Autrichienne, "The Austrian Woman." The name was always meant as an insult, or at least as extremely hostile. The last seven letters in the word Autrichienne, is the french word for "Bitch".

Inspired by Antoinette's Austrian roots (that one should never be ashamed of), this lovely 18th century style neck ruff
is decorated with a traditional ribbon trim technique found between Austria and Bavaria.
The sheer and satin stripe aqua blue ribbon is ruched onto a solid ribbon base, and set off with a silver metallic braid down the center.
A bow of the same ribbon decorates the front, and a square shaped rhinestone finding is sewn to the center for added sparkle. Ties in back.
One Size, hand sewn and one-of-a-kind

Length of ruff: 12 inches
including ribbon ties: 38 inches
Width: approx. 12 inches

Rococo Style Shoes Found on Etsy

Size 8.5 US, if anyone is looking or interested. I'd have snapped them up myself if they were my size ;->

http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=31128106

Carnivale Tricorn Progress

It's nearly done, ribbon ties attached as per the client's request. I just want to add a small hair comb to the inside back of the crown for added stability. Hatpins may come in handy though.
The plumes are in a base that can be pinned wherever the wearer chooses, but for these photos, I just plopped them on top of the hat.
Please excuse my mannequin's messy hair:

Tips, Tricks and Details

Another thing I'd like to include in this blog is the occasional sewing or trimming tip for those who also sew or just dabble in historical costuming.
Perhaps I'll make it regular a once-a-week post, highlighting a new historical (or just helpful) sewing tip, trimming technique or trick.
Or things to avoid; a "do's and dont's" if you will...I can think of a million and one things right now, but I digress.

This week's trick: The hidden secret of metallic lace trim.
It can be gathered without the use of a sewing machine.
The best kind to do this with will have a top edge and a decorative edge.
Many people don't know this, but there are threads you can pull to gather that are already woven in. They act as a stabilizer for the lace pattern, and in this case are often metallic themselves.
Find the base threads in the top edge that run straight, there will almost always be more than one, and you'll have to get hold of each one at the cut end of your trim.
Once you have them on *each end* of the length you want to gather, pull gently while holding the lace with the other hand (near where you are pulling), and gather as loosely or as densely as you like. Work the gather up from both ends.



To tie each end off, twist threads into a single, denser thread, and knot.
This might take a bit of practice for some.

Not all trims (metallic or otherwise) will lend itself to this kind of thing, but when you find one that does, the effect is stunning. Wired taffeta ribbon is great for this too when it comes to making rosettes and millinery trims. You can remove the wire from one edge of the ribbon, then use the other as a gathering thread.

Now I'm on the hunt for a metallic trim with pullable threads running down the center for that a classic "ruched" look.

The current project and a future item for the Etsy shop...

At the moment I'm working on a new neck ruff style based on a portrait of Madame de Pompadour...



and a small fancy tricorn hat for a friend who will be attending Carnivale in Venice, Italy this February.
The plumage is actually detachable, sho she can not only have the option of placing it wherever she wants, but it makes it that much easier to pack the hat for travel ;-) More photos as it's finished. Ignore the pins...



Keep your eyes on my Etsy shop for the new neck ruff and more new additions. In the meantime, brows the current collecton:

Etsy Buy Handmade viennalarouge